Hot time in the summer ...

9 July 2012, Washington, DC

Here I am, back in DC for a day at the Women for Women offices before my flights back to Rumbek, South Sudan.  I was awake at about 3 am and of course couldn’t fall back to sleep.  A frequent pre-travel event.  Plus it was hot!  I tried but finally got up at 5, took a shower, did an online checkin for my flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi which I couldn’t do last night for some reason.  I’m meeting a colleague for breakfast at 8, then to the office for a hectic day of appointments before I start my 24 hours of travel to Nairobi.  I fly up to Rumbek on Wednesday morning.

It’s been a busy time in Minneapolis this month.  Still catching up with people I haven’t seen in months as well as preparing for this trip.  The weather gods did a good job of the latter recently.  Temps in Minnesota were in the 90s and above 100 a few days, and here in DC it’s been worse.  Just saw a news item about a jet at Dulles sinking into the overly hot tarmac!

11 July, Wilson Airport, Nairobi, Kenya

Here I am at 6:30 am, checked in and waiting for my 8 am flight to Rumbek.  I’ve made friends with a group of nuns, one of whom is going to Rumbek and flying for the first time and a little nervous according to her colleagues.  Per usual, the airline hasn’t got change for $100, the bill of preference that we all carry, and I had no small bills either.  So I gave Sister Antonia 3000 Ksh to pay for her excess baggage.  Afterwards I realized I could have changed the $100 for her; I have six twenties in my money belt.  Well, she gave me her blessing, which I’m sure I’ll need.  

Had a lovely time in DC with Regina and the boys last weekend.  Liam and Roan have certainly grown up since the last time I saw them.  They’ve become interesting conversationalists, actually working at that.  Their dad let us use the pool at his townhouse complex on Saturday when the temp was well above 100.  So that’s where we all headed as soon as I dropped my bags and we had a quick snack.  Later I took the boys to Chipotle for dinner while Regina met a new date (ok but not a keeper, she said) for a drink.  Sunday we feasted on homemade french toast, which I haven’t had in decades, then went to see the new “Spiderman” at an early matinee.  I highly recommend the movie; we saw the non 3D version.  I liked Andrew Garfield’s interpretation of the character, and he’s cuter than Toby Maguire.  Sunday night I stayed at a hotel across from the Women for Women office, the better to be on time for my early breakfast to catch up with friend David and start my full roster of appointments before I depart for South Sudan.  Loved having a chance to put more faces to names as I met people throughout my visit.  Finalized my scope of work with Karen and pray I can get it all done!  

Since I awoke at 3 am on Monday and wasn’t able to fall back to sleep, I knew it was going to be a long, hard trip.  But it started well.  Taxi ride to Dulles airport was expensive but uneventful. Air France handled the check in, and the agent said I could use the airline lounge, probably because I paid for an upgraded seat.  Hurray.  A quiet, comfortable place for the 90-minute wait and within spitting distance of my gate.  Free wi fi as well as beverages and real food.  Unlike Delta, the Air France lounge had sandwiches along with all the fruit, nuts, snacks.  I opted for some peanuts and cheddar cheese with a Coke Zero and bottle of water since I’d eaten a big sandwich at lunch.

Both of my flights were on KLM airplanes with lots of handsome Dutchmen as flight attendants and passengers.  Probably should’ve tried for a photo op, ala Scotland!  The Dulles-Schiphol flight got off to a great start when I spilled a glass of plain tomato juice.  No wine with dinner for me!  At least I didn’t have someone in the seat next to me, only I got juiced and it was my orangish-red South Sudan dress.  I watched a movie that I’ve been wanting to see, “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel,” and thoroughly enjoyed it until I realized I was ready to sleep and the pilot was announcing our approach to Schiphol.

When we arrived in Amsterdam, I checked my boarding pass for the departure gate only to discover it was the same gate.  Been a  long time that has happened anywhere.  I wandered a bit, found some breakfast, worked on the Internet, printed my Nairobi-Rumbek ticket, bought some books, sat and waited for my next flight, desperately trying to stay awake.  Those of you have know I have a Kindle may be wondering why the return to dead renewable resources.  Well, while in DC, I dropped my Kindle on the floor and suddenly could only read half a page.  Yes, Amazon will replace at no cost but not in time for me to depart with it.  It will wait for me in MN at which time I’ll return the broken one.

I had a nice exit door seat on an aisle for my ‘night flight,’ that’s what my body was calling it.  But I ended up trading with the wife of the man next to me so they could sit together.  She was closer to the door we’d actually exit too and at an exit door but in the middle, which isn’t so bad when you’re by the door; lots more leg room.  At that seat the man next to the window looked uncomfortable as he was quite tall and the slide cover hindered his legs.  So I offered to trade with him. I wanted to sleep and leaning on the window is more comfortable than trying to sleep in a middle seat.  A flight attendant helped me move and store my carry-ons, got me a pillow and blanket and didn’t awaken me to offer me coffee, tea or pop. I must’ve fallen asleep as the plane took off because the next thing I knew we were in the air and I could smell dinner.  I dozed a bit after that but never for long.  I worked my favorite weekend International Herald-Tribune crossword and read.

14 July, Rumbek, South Sudan

Feels like I’m home, which is how I usually feel when I return to someplace I’ve lived for a while.  The warmth of the greeting from WfWI staff, Afex folks and others was heartening -- they were glad to see me, had lots of questions about my travel to the US.

Spent time on Thursday afternoon getting settled in and acclimated, although weather in Washington and Minneapolis were good prep.  Then it was off the running.  My scope of work is chock full, so I’ve been meeting after meeting and in between, either debriefing with Regina, the country director, or trying to make sense of my notes.  Yesterday evening I invited the two nurse-midwives to dinner at the Afex dining hall so I could catch up.  Lucy, who manages the farm where the clinic takes place, joined us.  We want to ensure the prenatal clinic will continue after their UN contracts expire in early autumn.  They’ll meet with the community elders and women to prepare them for the transition to local hospital staff handling the clinic alone.

It’s Saturday but just another work day, and a long one at that.  

15 July, Rumbek

Saw two baby leopards today and realized how tame the deer at Safari Style, the compound with the pool, are.  Two of my “pool friends” brought them over in their arms from a nearby “wildlife preserve.”  The baby leopard were adorable and taken back to the preserve.  A couple of small deer nibbled grass near us most of the afternoon and never moved an inch when we did.  So different from at home.

16 July, Rumbek

A long day of trying to re-write a position paper while interviewing three different employees individually.  Will I ever make sense of my notes?  Since I’m doing a mini operational audit, I have the output of a sizable forest collecting in my tote, the back up documentation I’ll send with my report.  The suitcase that I emptied of supplies for the nurse-midwives will not return as light as I had anticipated.

The chef must’v known I could use some comfort food.  Lunch included meatloaf (and Heinz ketchup) and mashed potatoes, saute’d zucchini in lieu of Mom’s green peas, and tomato/cucumber salad in lieu of her cole slaw.  I don’t usually eat so heartily at lunch but made an exception today.  Not a bad meal, considering it wasn’t Mom’s home cooking (or even my rendition of that).

Had an email from an old friend from my Macedonia days.  Leigh was head of the education pillar at USAID.  Last time I saw her was in Krakow two years ago when she and a friend made a side trip to Krakow en route to a conference in Prague.  She’s in Nairobi and I’m hoping we can manage dinner on Friday night.  I have a biz meeting with our regional HR person midday on Saturday and leave at 6 pm for the airport and home!

18 July, Rumbek

Chilly, overcast, damp morning.  Looks like it rained last night as my “porch” had a new small puddle this morning.

And now it’s bedtime and I haven’t written a thing.  Too busy.  But I saw on television that it was Nelson Mandela’s birthday, and in honor of that, the chef made a delicious square layer cake decorated like the South Africa flag.  Jan, our regional person, arrived today as I was returning from the farm.  I’ve written about the farm before and had such high hopes that we could move it along.  But that doesn’t seem possible now.  Of the staff of 10, I saw four people -- two security guards, one who had been on leave and drove there with me and a fourth.  Not good.  They seem to think “anything goes” the closer to the country office closing we get.

Lunch break for the women at CIFI Farm

Kids at farm gather to say 'good bye'

21 July, Nairobi

Jan, our regional director, and I flew back to Nairobi together yesterday and caught up on our morning of meetings. Thankfully the flight was smooth, even going into Lokichoggio, which often has turbulence due to the nearby mountains.  We’d heard that the flight in to Rumbek had turned around due to bad weather, which was why it was late.  After checking into the hotel, I had dinner with a friend, Leigh, and we caught up on several years of events.  She’s working on a big project in Nairobi for another aid contractor and comes there every month.  Spent the morning today working on my report of the South Sudan assignment, then met with Jan and Job, regional HR, for an hour on HR issues there.  I had the cab driver come at 6 pm to ensure I got to the airport with minimal traffic delays.  Nairobi traffic makes Chicago’s Dan Ryan  look like an open freeway.  At Kenyatta, I had my usual quesadilla for dinner, checked out the Kenya Airways lounge that I was eligible to use and shopped for tee-shirts and such to bring back this time.  Soon we’ll board ...

25 July, Big Sturgeon Lake outside Hibbing, Minnesota

Ah, relaxing up north at the lake.  A fine old Minnesota tradition that I have enjoyed for many years since I have friends with cabins.  Has always seemed silly and redundant to buy a cabin myself with its accompanying issues like leaky roofs, rodents seeking warm housing, double utility and tax bills.  My way means that I can bring along some wine and groceries, help with the kitchen clean up and bed changing ... and have a stress-free time.

My friend Jean from San Francisco grew up in Hibbing and kept her family’s lake place after her parents died.  While she doesn’t get there often, she does welcome guests.  So Janet (of Janet and Ed where I’m in temporary residence again) and I spent a few nights with her.  One day we went in to Hibbing for a bit of shopping and sightseeing.  We visited the world’s largest open pit coal mine and drove by her cousin Bob Dylan’s house.  

 That's one big mine!

Bob Dylan Drive in Hibbing MN

(not the house where he grew up)

28 July, Minneapolis & St. Paul MN

Of course today is the day my diverticulitis decided to act up.  I had a reunion of folks I worked with at my last corporate job pre-Peace Corps.  This was a second reunion of the Friends of The St. Paul, those of us who worked there when it meant something good and important for us and the community.  And tomorrow I’m driving up to Brainerd early with Janet so I can attend my former mother-in-law’s 92nd birthday party and Janet can tend to the bird feeders at their cabin.

I laid low most of the day and managed to enjoy the party.  Wore a purple and white maxi shift with my neon pink Tom’s shoes.  Delighted in telling people I’d just returned from South Sudan.

It’s official that Jerry Haug looks like Dick Cheney.  Didn’t recognize Candy Neumann who’s retired, but Sandi Wilkins looks and sounds just the same and is assisting the CEO of Courage Center. Saw Bev Williams, Bruce Backberg, Jon Roeder, Janet Nelson, Ron Stegeman, Robin Critelli, Dave Block, Sue Albrecht, Mary Pickard, Mickey Mulcahy, the widows of Laury Willox and John Lynch, George Tsui, TJ Ticey and loads of other people who’s names looked familiar ...

I got to thank Tom Swain for inspiring me to join the Peace Corps and for his tenacity in insisting on excellence (that means he was a real nitpicker).  Tom’s retirement was just before my late son Peter started his senior year in high school.  A friend told me that Tom had wanted to join the Peace Corps post-retirement, but his wife wouldn’t go unless they assigned him to London or Paris.  That started me to thinking about living my adolescent dream and the rest, as they say, is herstory. Thanks to Jim Schulte for instigating and organizing the reunion. 

29 July Brainerd MN

My former mother-in-law Ella will be 93 tomorrow, so today we helped her celebrate.  Elyse and Steve brought lots of food and arranged a room at the nursing home.  My nephews John and David, David’s wife Heidi and the kids were there.  Ella’s younger sister Anna Mae came from North Dakota and looked as fit as when I saw her at Easter 2011.  She’s 88 now and still in her home.  Her son Curt, his wife and their grandson were with us and so were another cousin Sue and her husband Dennis; we haven’t seen them since Sue’s mom died quite a few years ago.

Ella, right, and her 'baby' sister AnnaMae celebrate Ella's 93rd birthday

For those who have missed my weather reports, a MN tradition as old as going up north for a heat break ... it has been hotter in Minneapolis than in the southern US ... and in South Sudan.  I don’t recall a time when temps hit the 90Fs and 100F so often, and it’s not even August yet, our hottest month.

"You take the high road ..."

You take the high road ...

3 June, Ayr, on the west coast of Scotland

A new adventure -- a week in the land of half my forebears (the other half were Hungarian).  My mom was born in a small town on the Clude coast in Ayrshire and emigrated with my grandparents when we was almost four.  My cousins and I have talked about this trip for a while and finally got organized.  Four of us committed:  Melanie (nickname Tooz) is a first cousin; Annie is her niece, her brother’s daughter; and Tomery (sometimes called T) is my niece, my sister’s daughter.  Have never traveled with Tooz or Annie and not with T since she was a kid, so it will be an interesting week.  Annie booked our rental car, and I booked the B&Bs. We all said we were flexible on sights to see other than wanting to visit Stevenston.  I’m the only one of us who’s been there (I took Peter in 1987).

I flew from Warsaw to Amsterdam and met Tomery at the gate where we were to depart for Glasgow.  She looked exhausted from her transatlantic flight and was.  Annie and Tooz had arrived in early morning respectively from San Francisco via Newark, and St. Louis via Philadelphia.  They picked up the rental car (a Peugeot mini-van with a decent sized trunk) and drove to the B&B in Ayr, then returned to meet us.  No sooner were we outside the terminal than I got a text message from Annie describing their vehicle. Since the firebombing at the Glasgow Airport a few years ago, there is only one pick up/drop off place.  We were dragged our suitcases and totes in that direction when we heard a “Hello, Americans,” and there they were.  Annie’s doing well with the driving on the left side, but we added me to the rental contract so she didn’t have to do all the driving, and we took the insurance just in case.  Off we went to begin our tour of Scotland and of Scottish roundabouts.  

Aside:  In lieu of crossroads and stop lights, a substantial majority of the intersections we traversed were joined by roundabouts.  These are traffic circles, some large, some small, all with an abundance of signs that weren’t always easy to see or understand.  But when you miss a turn, a roundabout makes getting back on track easier, especially in the countryside where making turns around the block and back to your road isn’t possible.  And Annie got the knack of proper roundabout vehicle positioning pretty fast, resulting in few close calls with more experienced roundabout drivers.

The B&B in Ayr is lovely, well stocked with miniature toiletries, hair dryer and hair iron, electric kettle and coffee/tea fixings.  Big glass shower; took a while to figure out the hot water but got plenty.  Hurray.  We are in the two rooms on the top floor -- T’s and mine looks across the neighboring rooftops to the Clyde a block or two away.  The whole street of row houses seems to be B&Bs. Our only downside is the double bed, but T has assured me she sleeps like the dead, literally on her back with arms crossed on her chest.  We should do okay since I sleep in only one position half the night and switch after my 3 am bathroom break.  Neither of us should get kicked or socked in the night.

The B&B owner, who had previously given Tooz and Annie a breakfast place recommendation, walked by as we were going to dinner.  At our request he suggested the two best places in town for dinner, gave us directions and off we went on foot.  Safffie’s was all reserved for today and tomorrow (!), so we made a Tuesday reservation, then walked on and had dinner at The Treehouse.  The half hour wait was filled with glasses of wine and lots of conversation.  Food was good, but we were surprised that Annie’s lobster mac and cheese came with chips (french fries).  Hmmm.

Annie,Tooz and T outside our Ayr B&B on arrival day

6 June, Edinburgh, Scotland

I’ve been very bad about keeping up my writing or even taking notes -- been having too much fun.  Tomery does indeed sleep like the dead.  She fell asleep on top of the bed so I covered her with the extra comforter, then snuggled under my side and slept soundly.  The B&B offered an array of cooked breakfasts, all much larger meals than any of us usually have.  The full Scottish breakfast was eggs as you choose, “bacon” or sausage, potato scone, grilled tomato half, saute’d mushrooms, toast.  Plus juices, several fresh fruits, cereal selection, milk and yoghurt, tea and coffee. Phew!  We all tried downsized versions of the Scottish breakfast, and a tasty French toast was also offered, tried and deemed delicious. I mostly stuck to cold cereal with fruit and yoghurt and toast.  And of course coffee.  Annie and I shared a steamy French press of marvelous coffee each morning (Tooz drinks tea, and T only juice).  

Aside:  I wrote “bacon” like that because UK bacon is definitely not the American bacon we’d’ve preferred.  It’s more like what we call Canadian bacon.  I love “real bacon” but as a result, rarely eat it because it’ll make me fatter.  T, the personal trainer, said that’s not true; I can have it daily within a healthy diet.  Hmmm.  Food for thought.

Monday we went to Mom and Granny’s hometown, Stevenston.  I was able to find New and Boglemart streets, where they had lived, and the old cemetery with so many familiar family names.  We old folks had our photo taken under a unique-to-us sign, “Elderly People,” that had a silhouette of two bent-over figures with canes.  Definitely an aging population in the town, eh?  We bought organic wine at a cooperative which must be a national organization that offers broad services.  We saw the same coop in many places and selling things as diverse as pharmacy and funeral services (different locations!).

Me and ‘the sign’ in Stevenston

After a potty-and-tea break at a neighborhood cafe with great cupcakes, we headed for Dundonald Castle.  We’d seen signs and decided it would be our castle visit on this side of the country.  It was a ruins high atop a hill but included a handsome Scot tour guide as well as good exercise on a sunny day.  It also had a pit-style dungeon, and since, the guide said, American author Edgar Allen Poe was known to have visited the area, this may have been the inspiration for his “The Pit and the Pendulum” story.  Afterwards we had lunch in Troon, then got to the Robert Burns Cottage and Museum in Alloway, near Ayr, before it closed.

Tuesday  Annie suggested a Scotch whisky tasting, I suggested a picnic on the beach afterwards, so we thought we’d take the ferry to Arran Island where there’s a distillery, and lots of beaches.  But alas, while we could get there, we could not return the same day, and we had our one commitment - the dinner reservation - that night.  Off we went in search of food and a beach on the mainland.  A nearby shopping area included a Marks & Spencer food store, which I knew would offer lots of single-serve prepared food.  It was a much bigger version of the small M&S stores I had used in London in the past, but we all found some things for our lunches.

The beach was a perfect break, especially for the three still enduring jet lag.  Tooz and Annie explored different parts of the seaside and beach; Tomery napped; and I read my Kindle and people watched.  Several horses and riders trotted along the beach, lots of wading kids laughed as gentle waves pushed them shoreward, a small group of adults chatted as they tossed a Frisbie with two children.  We watched three horses wade straight into the sea deep enough for the riders’ rear-ends to get wet.  None of us had ever seen that before and could not figure out why the riders had done it.  We dusted off the sand, labored up the steep sandy path and down the other side to our car, and continued our tour of roundabouts as we returned to the B&B.  Saffie’s that night was as good as its billing, and included a photo op with the handsome waiter. 

This morning it was my turn as driver.  Before we left for Edinburgh, Tooz and I took Annie to a recommended “surgery” for meds for a urinary track infection that refused to go away.  We went via a wrong address that looked familiar.  Duh - we were in Alloway, across from Burns Cottage.  We asked for help at a tiny convenience store complete with post office and friendly locals. We met a puppy being trained as a seeing eye dog and got postcards and stamps.  We dropped Annie at the right address, then returned to the B&B await for her.  T was awake and waiting for us.  Annie said that her doctor visit, urine test and prescription were a pittance compared to what it would’ve cost her at home.

After loading the car trunk successfully (rear window was visible for driver), we went for coffee and the mandatory potty break and got a photo op too.  Afterwards we learned that the handsome waiter grabbed Annie’s ass as we photo’d them!  The predicted rains came, and we stopped at a social history museum in Glasgow recommended by Steve from the Poland board -- The People’s Palace also had an arboretum and outdoor gardens.  By the time we finished, the rain was down to a very light drizzle, so we headed to the city center for lunch and shopping.  Three of us bought shoes, including Annie’s ruby red slippers (actually very sparkly high heeled mary janes) and my neon pink Tom’s slip-ons.  Tooz also got Tom’s, which means two pairs of shoes will be sent to Africa.

I’d promised the B&B we’d arrive between 5 and 6 pm, which we did.  Nice to have rooms on the main floor since we are schlepping more than we arrived in Scotland with!

After all the riding, a long walk toward the city center found us in a shopping area with mostly closed shops but some eating spots.  We had dinner at Zizzi’s, an Italian restaurant that must be a chain since I ate in one in London’s Notting Hill with my friend Ana years ago.  Good food, some nice eye contact across the restaurant with a handsome Scot but the “youngsters” decided no photo op.

7 June, Edinburgh

Well, we surely had an adventure today, thanks to me. I will never live this own.  We were taking the scenic route up the coast to St. Andrews with me at the wheel.  Even on the highway, I had been “leaning left” too often, over compensating for driving on the opposite side of the roadway.  On this narrow winding road with a bus coming quickly in my direction, I went a bit too far left, hit the curb, righted the car when we realized I’d blown out a front tyre (tire).  (Later we were shown a bulge in the rear one on the same side.)  Thankfully I found a wide driveway just ahead and pulled in next to what looked like a side-by-side duplex.  A larger building with maybe four flats was at the back.  I went to both and rang doorbells to no avail.  So we were on our own as we set about fixing the tire. Unfortunately we had a sealer kit, not a spare, and for whatever reason, despite our following the instructions, it didn’t work.  Annie eventually got through to Avis on her iPhone.  The rep took our details and said they’d send a replacement car and someone to fix and return ours within a couple of hours.

We stood in the chill wind because we thought we might damage the tire rim if we sat in the car.  Then a car pulled in and drove to the back of the duplex.  I followed and found an older man taking groceries from his trunk.  I told him what had happened and that we were just waiting for a tow.  Later a second man arrived and let us into the front garden, which offered a place to sit out of the wind.  He’d come to water his partner’s flowers and apologized for not having her keys to let us into the house!  The other guy returned to offer us his bathroom and a cup of tea or coffee, and eventually we decided to sit in the car, rims be damned, and wait.

Finally a huge rescue truck arrived, complete with flat bed for carrying our car and handsome, older Scot for driving, humor and photo op.  We were going to be transported, not get a new car.  The cab of the truck had a long bench seat that would hold all of us.  The driver removed his tool box to facilitate our climbing into the high rig while he winched our car.  Then off we went, only to hear a loud ‘clunk’ about two minutes into our drive.  The driver had set his took box on a flat bumper, and it had fallen onto the road.  Amazingly when he retrieved it, it had not opened.  

Me and ‘my’ handsome Scot

With two new tires, a few signatures on forms, photo of me and our handsome rescuer, and an agreement that we’d find lunch next, off we went in search of Frankie & Benny’s, a supposedly New York-style restaurant and a chain that we had seen everywhere and decided to try. If ever there was a day for comfort foot, this was it.  The ambiance was decidedly un-New York other than the ‘60s steak-house music, the food was disappointing, the service was worse.  The waiter was gorgeous but not a native Scot (Argentinian I think). But we’d filled our tummies.  With a few more tours of roundabouts, we finally arrived back at our B&B.  Although the night before we’d made reservations at Ryan’s Pub for dinner and live music, none of us was up to it. We were in for the night.  It’s exhausting doing nothing, and I was miserable over having ruined our trip to St. Andrews but glad we’d taken the extra insurance.  I appreciate the reassurances that the day was an adventure and not a ruin. And having all three men at the scene tell us that multiple accidents had occurred on that stretch helped too. Now Tomery is hungry, so I ordered a takeaway pizza on line from a local place.  Must get to the door and wait for delivery.

8 June, Edinburgh

My legs are shot, my back is killing me and I’m booped -- all indicators of what a fantastic day we had, despite ugly skies and occasional rain. We walked toward Edinburgh Castle, and at the commercial area where we’d been previously, we were puzzling over how to navigate a maze of construction fences when a handsome city worker asked if we needed help.  When we said we were going to the castle, he said he was en route to a pub near there and would lead us, which he did at a brisk pace, complete with historic commentary.  No photo op as he seemed in a hurry when he left us at a wooded park path that led to the castle.

Two Leos at Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle looms above the city, is largely in tact and exemplifies the ‘castle as town.’  Lots of picture taking, a tea-and-potty break, some souvenir shopping inside the castle walls and outside too.  Then down the other side of the hill in search of Fishers.  Since that’s the family name, we had pre-determined we’d lunch there.  Didn’t hurt that food reviews were also excellent -- and well deserved. Then more wandering and shopping -- we kept finding dresses to go with Annie’s ruby red slippers, dresses she didn’t buy but occasionally did model for us.  A trek back up the hill for more souvenir shopping, down the other side and back through the construction maze to our familiar local commercial district where I gave up on walking and hailed a cab.  

Annie, T and Tooz at Fishers for lunch

We ordered takeaway Chinese -- way too much so-so food and no utensils or condiments, drank some of the wine we’d bought in Stevenston and played a new card game.  Tomery and Annie both knew “Asshole,” a college drinking card game, and taught Tooz and me.  The winner gets to be “president” and the loser, “asshole,” and I won and Tooz lost the first game.  I need to find a new name for the game as it’s fun and while Tosia in Krakow would enjoy the game, my friends/her parents would not appreciate the name.  We kept playing ‘one more game,’ but finally Tooz and I gave out.  T and Annie are still sitting on the floor with the last of the wine, and I’m ready to pull the comforter over my head and go to sleep to the sound of their laughter.

9 June, Glasgow, Scotland

Where has the time gone? One day left. T and Annie had decided to sleep in, but Tooz and I were up early a usual for tea, coffee, silence and reading, but the host never seemed to get it today or ever.  He must have asked us three times if our friends were coming to breakfast though we told him “no” the first time.  We had decided to leave early and re-try our aborted trip to St. Andrews before going on to the airport area hotel.  We all agreed we’d move to St. Andrews if we could; it’s beautiful.  We shopped for gifts for the golfers in our lives.  The drive cross country to Glasgow was through a lushly green countryside and hills.  Mountains in the distance.  Not many houses, an occasional village.  With Annie behind the wheel, we made the trip from Edinburgh to St. Andrews to our hotel near Glasgow airport without major incident, just the occasional tour of roundabouts.  

Glasgow Airport is not easy to locate, even with a Google map and directions on my Mac. Given that and my accident, after we checked into the hotel, Annie and I drove to the airport (almost going via the wrong way and through the Clyde Tunnel) to return the rental car.  Thank God we did.  The poor Avis rep was having a hard time with a new computer system complicated by the fact that Annie had rented through Budget but all the documents and contacts were Avis.  The Avis rep shared her last two Gummie Bears with us, so when we finally completed everything, she found an airport shop and got her a new bag, which made her smile. We were socked with a 100 pound deductible but at least not the full cost of the tires etc.  I offered to pay that but Annie refused.

Annie and I took a cab back to the hotel with our final handsome Scot at the wheel.  I told him about our photo op, and he readily agreed to a photo with Annie.

Annie and our final handsome Scot

12 June, Warsaw, Poland

Returned Sunday and had dinner with Peace Corps friend Kim, who is here having physical therapy.  He broke his leg in a bad fall a few weeks ago.  Great to catch up with him over gyros and hummus at a nearby Turkish cafe.  Then the deluge came, so we shared a cab.  Back here at my old flat (Marta’s at her mom’s - Hala’s - in Sandomierz this week), I did two loads of laundry, so I’d have something clean to wear this week.

Monday I called a few friends, ironed, bought some groceries and walked a lot.  The weather was iffy in the morning but got warm in the afternoon.  Today has been lovely all day.  Iza, a friend from Krakow who’s here this week, will come over later and we’ll have dinner.  Maybe I’ll cook, now there’s a change. 

15 June, Dworzec Zachodni, Warsaw

Sitting at the main bus station waiting for my bus to Sandomierz.  Yes, I cooked dinner for Iza and myself -- pasta with garlicky pesto, a huge “garbage” salad (old friend Dean’s description of my salads that include every fresh veggie in the flat) and fresh strawberries.  It was great to catch up with Iza. Her job with the micro-finance investment firm seems to be going well.   So she’s taken a small flat in Warsaw and is essentially living here.  

Since it’s raining in the village, Marta and the cats returned early.  We had lunch yesterday after s long drive to Marta’s old roommate Piotr’s new flat in one of the exurbs; she had promised to water his avocado tree while he’s working in Germany.  Beautiful area and flat but waaaaay too far out for me.  Lunch was at a little hole-in-the-wall in the center of Warsaw, The Lunch Box, where Marta and her colleagues often lunch.  I had the best cheeseburger and fries as well as a bowl of cold cucumber/yoghurt soup.  Need to get that recipe!  Not sure what was in the burger besides beef, but it was delicious.

Now I’m returning to Sandomierz for the weekend and hoping it won’t still be raining!

18 June, Sandomierz

Busy weekend.  On Saturday I went on a wycieczka (excursion) with some of the Center and hotel staffs to a small village organized for agro-tourism,  The excursion was part of the activities supported by the Center’s social fund, one of the carry-overs from the ‘old days’ when such funds sent kids to summer camp, workers to health spas as well as covering the costs of excursions.  The Center uses part of the funds for a big Christmas party for staff children, regardless of their ages since some are at university or beyond (eg, Marta) now.  All those children that I took to see animated films and who had their faces painted at the strawberry festival when I worked here are grown up although a few new ones have come along as the staff has grown in size.

It was refreshing to be outdoors much of the day, despite the heat.  Our host and his son greeted us with cherry liqueur, fresh bread and smalec (a spread made from lard), and various cakes. We toured his site on foot -- a large wooden house with a dining hall and permanent band (human sized cardboard people dressed and with instruments), petting zoo of farm animals, small pond with gazebo and various other places to sit and relax.  We took a trip around the village in wooden wagons pulled by a “horse” (wooden cutouts on either side of a Rav 4), walked in the forest, ate traditional village food (grilled meats) for lunch.  We visited two local potters where the children made some small pots.  These men are among the few potters who continue to use the traditional methods, so every piece is hand made from start to finish.

Center and hotel staffs supplement the ‘house band’

Yesterday I went to a skansen near Kielce with Halinka from the Center and her friend Irena who owns a souvenir shop that specializes in Polish-made crafts.  A skansen is an outdoor ethnographic museum that is a collection of houses and other buildings from the past.  This one is assembling a town square of a small town as well as a mountain village.  The curators gather old buildings, have them disassembled and moved, then reassembled in the skansen.  They are decorated with period furniture and artifacts.  Thirty years ago when Halinka was still an ethnographer she decorated one of the houses we saw.  

The skansen was the site of a celebratory event to announce the winners of a regional competition to identify the best regional products -- food, beverage, souvenirs, baskets, toys etc. -- and opportunity for vendors to show and sell their wares. We noshed our way through a buffet at the private reception in an old granary, and wandered the booths the dotted the park.  We all bought a few things and took photos.  Halinka wanted some because promoting authentic regional foods will be part of the Swiss-supported agro-tourism program the Center is implementing.

I returned exhausted and full but enough room for a snack of cucumbers and tomatoes fresh from the vines of Hala’s neighbor’s garden.  My mouth was in taste heaven.

Today I did what little ironing we had, sweating profusely the whole time.  At 9 am it was already 80F (27C).  The contractor’s team arrived very early and is starting work on Hala’s old building that she’s turning into a couple of small apartments that could eventually be used for tourists.  Scaffolds are up, the roof is down and the men are off to a tea break; it’s 10 am.  

30 June, Minneapolis MN USA

Back home but getting ready to leave again.  

After my weekend at the farm in Sandomierz, I returned to Warsaw and stayed with Dorota and her family.  She was my first Polish teacher during Peace Corps training almost 21 years ago, and her business partner Malgoscia was my second.  Their school that trains foreigners to speak Polish is 18 years old.  Hardly seems possible.  I edit English language copy for them, like their Facebook pages.  We brainstormed some marketing ideas while I was there.

Dorota and Jacek with Franiu, now 5

Have been taking it easy in some ways since I got back -- seeing friends but not running around like a maniac trying to see everyone.  I decided to give myself time to relax and to get back into the swing of exercise.  I’ve been back to my morning water exercise class ... and my aching muscles are screaming that I needed to be less aggressive on that.  And I walk around the lake with friends regularly.  Oh, and of course, I’m checking out my favorite restaurants and a few new ones too.

Next weekend I fly to DC and on 9th fly out for South Sudan for two weeks.

Sliding home

Sliding home

1 May, Labor Day in much of the world including South Sudan

Still in Juba until tomorrow.  The UNHAS/WFP flight departs early, 9 am, so we’ll have to leave by 7 am to manage check in.  

Have started orientation for Regina, my replacement, but since today is a holiday, we aren’t pushing it.  Her daughter lives here and works for a German development organization, so they got together today for a tour of the town.  Tomorrow back to reality.  Tom, our logistics officer, says the police have begun dunning local shops SSP 100 (about $33 at the bank exchange rate) to support the government, which has no money for its new war with the north because it’s not selling any oil, and oil provides 98 percent of its revenue.  Tom said his landlord dunned each renter SSP 10 for the same cause.

4 May, Rumbek

And the rains came!  We’ve been talking in the office about how we’ve only really had sprinklings of rain, other than that one storm.  Then as I sat waiting for a big meeting to end so that I could return to my locked office, the sky got instantly black and drops the size of black olives fell from the sky.  I decided a wet me now was better than a wet me when the rain had turned the walking areas into mud pies, and hustled back to my tent where my boots were.  Mind you, I had been carrying them to the office every day in case of rain ...

As I sit in my tent, the storm works its way across our compound.  Thunder roars like the sound of the WFP airplane engines we hear so often at the airport across the street.  Rain pounds my tent but I am dry.  The air outside was thickly humid before the storm, which doesn’t bode well for the evening.  Another sweaty one.

Outside the office after the rain

7 May, Rumbek

An incredible amount of wind in late afternoon, green leafy trees shaking so hard it sounded like rain but nothing fell.  News from Logistics today is of severe fuel shortages, extremely high prices for same and a need to stockpile.  To be discussed tomorrow.

Which reminds me of Julio, a fellow “inmate” who has the big tent diagonally in front of mine, and just returned from his R&R in Libya.  Gasoline is 13 cents a liter in Tripoli.  Julio marveled at how friendly everyone was in the country, how relaxed the environment was and how much he enjoyed the trip.  He stayed with friends of friends so he got to see the real country, not a tourist’s version.  They took him to an oasis in the desert as well as the seaside.  His hosts entertained and slept in the men’s lounge of the house, and after a day of sightseeing, he often crawled into his sleeping bag and fell asleep while they were still smoking and talking in the night.

9 May

At lunch today, my cell phone “booped” which meant I had a text message.  “Boop” is what the message tone sounds like.  So in case Regina or a staff member needed something, I checked.  It was the ubiquitous Ministry of Health warning message, this one about white worms.  “Any person who complains of a white worm emerging from his or her body must report to the nearest health facility.”  Very appealing to read when you’re eating.

10 May

I danced on the bar with Wayne, the camp manager, last night.  Nice guy that he is, Wayne had a small send-off party for me last night, and WFP manager Jennifer donated a bottle of tequila.  I limited my tequila shots to two by keeping some in the glass every time Julio tried to refill mine.  In between, I drank almost a liter of water (and I’d already had dinner).

From early in the week when everyone learned Friday is to be my last day here, they’ve been talking about a party and getting me onto the bar to dance.  Unfortunately it started to rain so most of the guests were “locals” (Afex residents), but we had a good time.  Julio is convinced I was drunk, and that’s why I got up on the bar.  Little does he know that there’s no way I would get drunk in a public place.  The voice of my Scots Presbyterian mother echoed in my ears that a lady never drinks too much in public or embarrasses herself (or her mother).  Plus, I know I’d’ve fallen off in two seconds ...

But it was a fun evening and now to bed with the natural sound of rain, not a machine.

Guilio, Julio, Gabriella, Marko (?) and Wayne at the party

11 May

We’ve been bemoaning that the rainy season is getting a late start for our farmers.  No more.  A gully washer started up again around 4 am and continued through my first cup of coffee.  I was heartened to hear a flight take off just before leaving for the dining hall, but that was it for today.  ALS, the private airline that flies to Nairobi, cancelled its flight due to excessive rain and insufficient aviation fuel in Rumbek.  So here I am until Monday.  Spent most of the day alerting family and friends and canceling and re-scheduling flights etc.

12 May

Rumor has it that the local fuel distributor promised ALS sufficient fuel on Monday.  Now we must all pray to all the gods of weather that it won’t rain again until after my take off.  

Spent a lot of time last evening explaining why I was still around.  Had a glass of wine with a group of expats that I met at the swimming pool and a few from Afex.  Around 9:30 I decided to return to the office, check my downloads and messages, and head for my tent.  Not.  One of the messages was from our travel agent Omega notifying me that since I’d done an online checkin, I had to contact the gate in Nairobi to tell them I would not board.  The flight was leaving in an hour!

Found a KLM Nairobi number online and got an agent for Kenya Airways, their local partner, who could not help but at least gave me a number for the gate ... unfortunately the wrong number.  Used my SkypeOut to contact Omega in the US and for an hour, we went back and forth while she tried to get through to KA to get the correct number.  The issue was that if I were a no-show, they’d cancel everything.  Lisa learned this earlier when she had trouble with the re-booking we’d discussed when I first learned of the cancellation of my Rumbek-Nairobi flight.  Lisa had called Delta (I had Delta flight numbers; another KLM partner) and KLM (which was operating the flights) in the USA and in Holland, and all told her there was nothing they could do; I had to cancel at the gate.  After several minutes on hold tonight, the KA agent who answered hung up on her! Anyway, Lisa figured out a way around the cancellation issue, and this morning I had a new reservation in my email box.  I will not check in online, even at the risk of an inside seat!

12 May

Just before dinner, the sky got very dark and shortly the rain started.  Although heavy for an hour or so, it stopped by the time I returned to my tent.  I saw Guilio and Gabriella, two Italian expats managing another project here, and Gabriella assured me we’d have good weather on Monday.  They are on the same flight to Nairobi, en route to their R&R in Tanzania.  

13 May, Happy Mother’s Day

Thirteen years ago I got my last Mother’s Day card from my son.  It was delivered posthumously.  Peter had asked my friend Janet to buy a card for him, and knowing him so well, she found one that matched his oblique sense of humor.  He wrote a very Peter note, signed it, and returned it to Janet for delivery.  The card is framed and on the wall in my bedroom.  It reminds me of the whole person that was my son.

14 May, still in Rumbek

It’s almost-always-sunny in Rumbek, and so far today the sun is shining.  Checked with ALS rep and he says we’re flying today.  Hurray!  I will have to wear my Wellies (the thick rubber boots I bought in Amsterdam at the Army surplus store) as they are too heavy and bulky for a suitcase. One of the expats at the pool yesterday suggested I do this, and it seemed a good solution.  Plus my bags will be overweight as is.  I imagine wearing them will cause some raised eyebrows at airport security, but so be it. I can take them off for closer inspection.

16 May, Minneapolis, Minnesota USA

The first message I hear over the loud speaker on arriving at the Lindbergh Terminal is about a tornado watch that is in place for the next 90 minutes.  I am definitely home.  It only took four flights, three days and one hotel overnight.

Flew out of Rumbek to a beautifully sunny day, landed in Lokichokio, Kenya, to a damp asphalt runway, ditto at Wilson in Nairobi.  But both legs were mostly smooth flying.  The brother of a Kenya colleague played cab driver and wound his way through Nairobi rush hour to deliver me at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.  Quesadillas with salsa and guacamole at the Java House in the airport and Coke Zero, my standard dinner on this leg of the trip.  Crowded flight with a very large man sitting next to me made it worthwhile to pay the exorbitant fee for an ‘economy comfort’ seat.  No sleep but lots of legroom and a more comfortable seat.  Seven hours in my favorite airport, Amsterdam’s Schiphol, gave me time for my usual yoghurt, granola, fresh fruit, pastry and real coffee breakfast.  Another, more reasonable fee for another economy comfort seat.  Again, not much sleep but worth the price.

Because I was arriving later than planned, I had cancelled my hair appointment for today.  But after arriving mid day and feeling the need for some relaxation and personal grooming improvement, I called Connie, my friend and hair dresser, and was able to get in.  My roots are now covered and my neck is now uncovered.  My hair is shorter than it has been in a long, long time but feels good after that gawdawful mid length that is just long enough for a two-inch pony tail and nothing else that’s comfortable in hot weather.  Thank you, Janet, for encouraging me to keep the appointment.

24 May

This has been a week of McVisits as one of my Peace Corps colleagues referred to the quick visits that result from a short trip home. Again I am apologizing to those I didn’t get to see ... will be home longer next time, and in August, back to retirement (except for some quarterly consulting that has been offered by Women for Women; more on that later).  I was happy to be home, however short, and to see that everyone seems to be doing well.  My nephew Christopher is a good condo and cat sitter; Lily loves him and may not want me back!  The new air conditioner is working well; I took care of the two required city inspections (electrical and mechanical).  The car had a dead battery despite my sister’s regular trips around the block.  Went to the dealer which installed a new one at no cost; it’s still under warranty and has less than 12,000 miles on the odometer.  My niece Tomery is going to use it for a month or so as her car “blew up” on the freeway when she was driving home today.  Thankfully no accident occurred, but the  service station said it needed a new engine because it threw a rod or something internally, a not unusual incident in an old car.

We celebrated Chris’ birthday with a family dinner at a favorite restaurant.  My niece Michelle’s husband made fresh shrimp, scallops and salmon for dinner at their remodeled condo. What a great cook her is, definitely a keeper!  Went to Brainerd to see my former mother-in-law, who is doing okay considering her age and health issues, and the Hagens.  Got to meet my God son Craig’s new girlfriend and her son, lovely additions to the clan, and saw his brother John’s new car, the first ever, and his nephew John’s ‘big boy’ bike, a birthday present.  Lois, my oldest MN friend no matter what years you’re counting (age or length of friendship), gives me hope for ‘old age,’ as she continues an active life despite failing eyesight.  When I’m back here more permanently, we’ll return to writing her memoir.

Finalized arrangements with friend Marilyn for our Alaska cruise in September.  I am so psyched for that, a long time dream.  Afterwards, I’ll visit Marianne, an old friend from my St. Paul Companies days that I haven’t seen in 20+ years, then on to San Francisco to see assorted friends and my middle niece Dyana.  Will stay with friend Jean.  We usually do an out-of-town trip for a few days.  Not sure where we’ll go, but Michelle’s husband Jon suggested Dyana take us to visit the company he’s working with.  They make realistic models for Air Force training exercises.  When we had dinner, Jon showed me a few pix of dummies with legs blown off by IEDs.  Yuk!  The company was started by George Lucas and created special effects for the Indiana Jones and original Star Wars films. Those films were made long before all the computer generated animation films rely on now, so the employees know how to make props look real. And they did.  By the way, Dyana is due for a promotion to Major soon.

25 May, Warsaw, Poland

Arrived groggy from two long flights with 24 hours of no sleep and had four hours to kill before I could get into the flat.  My friend Marta, where I stay in Warsaw, is away and left the keys with a neighbor who knows me from the years when it was my flat.  Had lunch, bought my train ticket to Krakow for tomorrow, walked around in the gorgeous sunny fresh air: nice way to kill four hours as a zombie.  Arrived at the flat, took off my jeans and fell asleep for a couple of hours: nice way to become less zombie-like.  Now I’m catching up on email, downloading some things to watch, etc. as feeling more normal.

26 May, Warsaw

Back into my Poland groove.  Ran down to the neighborhood market and bought half a loaf of uncut bread and fixin’s for a sandwich to eat on the train. Ate and made my lunch while BBC World Service played on the laptop.  Had fresh Tschibo Exclusive coffee with “village” bread, farmer’s cheese and homemade raspberry jam for breakfast.  

26 May, on the train to Krakow

Attention RPCV friends and colleagues.  I just caught the IC to Krakow from Peron 3, Tor 4, and it’s definitely an almost whole new train station.  The ticketing floor renovation (read: gutted and totally redone) has been completed just in time for Euro 2012.  Unfortunately the retro sculpture made of old signs was removed, but everything else is bright, new and shiny.  There are even designated lines for the ticket queue.  Down on the platform, it’s also bright and shiny, including easier to read schedules but the same old ugly floor floor tile.  And the distinct scent of Warszawa Centralna is gone.  

27 May, Krakow

God is no doubt scratching her head and wondering what’s going on.  I have been to church twice in two weeks -- last week I was a Lutheran with the Brainerd Hagens, this week a Roman Catholic with the Krakow Reenes.  I enjoy attending services when I’m in Brainerd, a small city in central Minnesota; it’s a family affair that includes the grand niece and nephews who behave pretty well, even when Papa (their grandfather, my brother in law) isn’t there to keep a stern eye on them.  One of the pastors is female, the congregation makes up in age diversity what it lacks in other kinds, the songs are familiar.

As for Krakow, Inga said that today is one of the holiest days in the Catholic Church. So she, nine-year-old Tosia and I went to the cathedral at Wawel Castle across the street.  The incense smell was overwhelming at times, but we had good seats for seeing the service and Inga said the homily wasn’t political.  The priest spoke about the demography of the young men joining the priesthood.

Later we walked the path along the Wisla to a karczma (inn) where you grill your own kielbasa or pork steak over an outdoor fire.  Along with a number of David and Inga’s friends, we belatedly celebrated David’s birthday. I had my first kielbasa of this trip.  (Since I love kielbasa, or kohlbasy to my Hungarian father, I only eat it outdoors in Poland.)

31 May, Sandomierz

Hala made me an appointment at the ‘spa’ so I had a manicure since I have fingernails thanks to seven months of no dish washing, and my eyebrows waxed (I hate tweezing more than the pain of waxing).  I am back to my usual loveliness.  Tonight we’ll have a board dinner, tomorrow Hala has us scheduled for a day of visiting clients.  I’m looking forward to seeing everyone again.  Then off to Scotland on Sunday.  Hurray!