Friday, July 3, 2015



Summer Fun Begins!

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ALL READERS:
Come September, I will stop sending the blog manually.  It’s time consuming and I have little info re who actually would like to receive/read it.  So, IF you are interested in following my adventures,  please add yourself as a “follower” on the blog site and it’ll automatically come to you when I post.  Apologies for any inconvenience … and no hard feelings if you don’t sign on.  Suzi


1 June, Athens, Greece, International Airport
Waiting for Sally and Kathy to arrive on their flight from Paris.  Was up at 2:45 because the shuttle service said the driver would arrive at 3:15, and he did.  We only picked up one other passenger so when we arrived at 4 am, the airport wasn’t even yet, which we learned after the driver abandoned us.  Thankfully a “Sky Priority” entrance was open; in we went.  Lovely flight in business class — I know I told you that Air France has moved up to #1 on my Favorite Airlines list.  Was able to doze for a couple of hours after having a fluffy omelet with mushrooms for breakfast en route.  Oh, and some more of that excellent coffee.  Delta, go to France and learn something!

Sally is an old friend beginning from my hospital PR days.  Like me, Sally likes to involve others in what she’s doing.  Thus she organized construction of two houses in a little village about 10 years ago, has five “partners” in her house and six in the other and goes there for a month each year.  I visited twice before when I lived in Skopje: once over Thanksgiving with Sally and another friend Carol and later with Acapulco friend Marie and some of her Block Island friends over Orthodox Easter. You can see the place at http://www.greekhomes.net.  Kathy and I met in the mid 80s at the YMCA; she took the Saturday morning adult fitness class I taught.  We went through our divorces together.  More recently her husband Chuck died of the same cancer that Inga’s husband David died of, only two weeks before.  Both Sally and Kathy were with me in Scotland at the same time last summer, which is where the idea of this Greece trip was hatched.

2 June, Lefkakia, Greece (near Nafplio on the coast in the Peloponnese)
Having a glass of Greek wine with Sally and Kathy at the house while we wait for Vicky’s taverna to start serving dinner at 7.  We are committed to not cooking.  Vicky does an excellent job, and we want to see her stay open.  She’s a very short walk away and an excellent cook.  Last night we indulged in a host of starters; tonight we’ll try her pork dish entree. 
Sally's Greek house

Easy day.  Coffee and whatever we wanted for breakfast while we read, web surfed, did laundry (I was definitely in need of that).  Then off to Nafplio for a wee wander, some lunch, a bit of shopping and photo taking before returning here for a nap.

Nafplio was the first capital of the Hellenic Republic and of the Kingdom of Greece.  Its history dates back to antiquity.  It’s also been ruled by Turks, Franks, Venetians and Ottomans on various occasions. It’s a seaport but also looks strongly to tourism for its economic base. Some cruise ships can come into the harbor which is being enlarged for bigger ones. Palamidi is a pretty well preserved 17th century castle 999 steps above the town.  Lots of orange and olive groves outside town, along with lots of rocky hillsides and other ancient ruins.
Palamidi Castle

5 June
Awoke to our first bad-weather day — rain in the morning, then a bit of sunshine before a brief thunderstorm after lunch.  In between, we went into town to shop, have lunch, get a paper, gas up the car.  A cruise ship was docked at the port and between those folks and students on a day off for teacher meetings, downtown was crowded.  We were lucky to get a table at the sea view restaurant we wanted.  Tonight we went to a restaurant that’s on the road to Nafplio.  It’s part of an art center that was built in a defunct tomato processing plant.  The center is extremely well done, includes indoor and outdoor eating/drinking, a gift shop with lots of artisan items, space for events.  We’re all hoping it continues to operate.  Before coming home, we stopped at the bus station where Kathy and I figured out how to buy tickets to Athens for Sunday morning.  We’ll spend the day there and fly out early Monday afternoon.  I found a reasonably priced hotel near the Athens Acropolis.

Nafplio
It’s been a great week of delicious and abundant always-fresh food along with excellent company.  Wednesday Kathy climbed up to Palamidi Acropolis (the mountaintop fortress above Nafplio) while Sally and I shopped the outdoor market for fresh fruits and veggies.  After lunch in nearby Tolo, a nearby seaside town, we went swimming in the sea there.  The water wasn’t cold but it wasn’t warm either.  By inches, we all finally got all the way in and paddled around for about half an hour.

Looking down on Mycenae ruins
Yesterday Sally took Kathy to see the well preserved fourth century outdoor theater at Epidaurus.  It’s quite a lot of walking up stairs plus I’ve been there before, so I opted to stay home with my left foot up.  In the afternoon we went to Mycenae, a Greek stronghold from 4000 or so years ago.  I opted to climb up to the citadel/acropolis with Kathy since the path was a concrete walkway with switchbacks, not stairs.  My foot doesn’t do well walking down stairs yet.  

Kathy’s been doing a fantastic job taking pictures and posting them on Facebook.  My camera is broken; not sure how it happened.  I’m using my iPhone when I remember to do that … I have never been good at remembering to take photos.  So I posted a link to her o a Fb comment suggesting friends check out her photos!

6 June
Before sacking out , I want to add a quick note to say how much everyone loved Kathy’s lemon curd dessert.  Sally invited four friends of hers to dinner.  Brigida and Horst are Austrian, and their vacation home here inspired Sally’s quest for one.  Sandy and Kevin are from the Twin Cities.  Sally’s home here inspired Sandy and some of her friends to renovate an existing house that’s not far awa).  It was great getting to meet all of them, but especially Brigida since I’ve been hearing about her since long before this house was built.

Vicky at her taverna
We ordered lemon chicken and spinach-rice from Vicky’s Taverna, Sally made her wonderful Greek salad, and Kathy offered to make something with the gigantic (small grapefruit sized) lemons that the ceramics shopkeeper gave us.  (Sally has gotten to know him, and Kathy and I bought big, unique, handmade coffee mugs from him.)  Anyway, after scouring the Internet for recipes, Kath settled on lemon curd … and we set off to find some kind of tart shells or mix for pastry.  Ended up with some pre-made flat frozen pastries that looked edible and usable … since everything was in Greek, directions were all Greek to us.  Sally’s going to take a sample lemon curd tart up to Vicky who expressed interest when Sally picked up the food.

As you can see, I had nothing to do with the cooking.  So I led clean up.  I think I washed every dish and piece of cutlery in the house!  But well worth it for such a splendid evening and meal.

7 June, Airotel Parthenon, Athens, Greece
Kathy and I took the 8 am bus from Nafplio to Athens, then a taxi to this hotel on a very narrow and car-lined street within a five-minute walk of the Acropolis and much more.  Good ole hotels.com came through again.  After arriving, we left our suitcases etc. with the concierge, a very helpful and friendly man who showed up key places to see on a free map.  Then we headed out for coffee and found a sidewalk coffee shop nearby. An excellent double cappuccino did the trick.  We walked about the equivalent of a city block to the south entry to the Acropolis and bought our tickets — only 12 euro each and it’ll get us into quite a few other sites. Then back to our hotel to check in, freshen up and take off again.  We explored the entire Acropolis, all the way up to the Parthenon and back down the other side where we found the Ancient Agora and explored that.  Then we found a sidewalk cafe that wasn’t quite inundated with passing tourists and shared a Greek salad and tsatsiki and bread lunch.

8 June, Goldair Lounge at Athens International Airport
Kathy and I were up early enough to finish packing, eat breakfast, check out of the hotel, then walk to the nearby coffee shop for a decent cup of coffee.  Coffee at the hotel’s buffet was definitely instant.  Then we took a taxi to the airport, and I used my “elite plus” status to get her into the Sky Priority check in line and this lounge.  Much nicer place to wait.  She just left for Atlanta via Paris.  I’m so glad she suggested that I join her on her first trip to Greece.  Great trip. We’re definitely returning.

Kathy’s flight left 30 minutes late … just learned mine’s delayed 10 minutes.  Time to close down.

Later, Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam
Arrived and turned my phone on and immediately it beeped that I had text messages waiting.  The obligatory ones from my Poland phone service and one from friend Ana that she would meet me for coffee at La Place near the train station.  It was wonderful to see her.  She and Art had also been in Greece, on one of those little islands where they could relax and enjoy the sun and beach.  

And even later … Warsaw, Poland
The clock on my laptop says 0:00.  I’m back at Dorota’s.  Her husband Jacek was waiting for me when I exited Customs.  We shared some travel adventures — they were in the Mazurian lakes region for the weekend.  Now to bed.


10 June, Warsaw, Poland
As usual, I woke up with the sun around 5 am but after a quick trip to the bathroom, went back to bed.  Absolutely no need to arise so early. I slept through Dorota ’s 6:15 departure to take her father for his chemotherapy, Jacek and Franek having breakfast, preparing and leaving at 7:50.  It felt deliciously decadent to stay in bed until 8:15.

A few errands today and tomorrow plus some coffee/lunch dates with old friends.

National Library in Warsaw
11 June
Tomorrow’s the big day.  I meet with Franek’s English class to tell them about two places where I have lived — Africa, because it’s more exotic than the Balkans to the average eight-year-old in Poland, and Minnesota, less exotic but still different from Poland.  I am really  %^&(*&^$ that somehow all of my pictures from South Sudan are gone, off in the atmosphere somewhere and I have no idea how or when.  Thanks to Niamh and Ethan (friends David and Olga’s kids) I have great photos from a recent trip their family took to Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda.

Jacek, Dorota’s husband, is working on my files to ensure we can play them tomorrow.  I use only Apple software (don’t get me started on Microsoft) but can save/convert files to MS programs.  So I did everything in Keynote, saved it, then saved another file in PowerPoint.  I even figured out how to add music!  A group of kids singing “Kumbayah” will play behind the Africa slides, and Bob Dylan singing “Blowin’ in the Wind” will play with Minnesota.  Wish me luck!

12 June
Whew!  I survived.  The kids were great, mostly attentive, very few questions.  I left them half a dozen children’s books in English that I had gotten at the library store in Minneapolis.  The slide shows worked flawlessly, even the music came on as programmed.  Originally I was going to have to start the music program, pause, start the slides, then re-start the music.  But I found a couple of slides that I wanted to add to each show and had to re-save them in Keynote, then again transfer/save in PowerPoint.  When doing this, I got a popup about updating Keynote, so I did that, and when it saved to PPT, it had a different file extension … and the music played when the slideshow started.  OMG, am I becoming competent at computer things?  Has hell frozen over?

Jacek & Franek
Tonight friend G joined Dorota, Jacek, Franek and me; she’s a American friend who lives and works in Warsaw that I’ve know for years.  We went to a nearby “Arabski” restaurant, a new location for a restaurant we’ve been to before and loved.  In fact, Dorota and Jacek have been eating here since Franek was a baby so the waitress (same one over eight years) knows them.  We had a delicious array of hummus, tzatziki, pita, falafel etc.  Then back to the flat for some cold wine and a long catch up.  G’s mother, who is undergoing chemo, is doing well; she’ll return to the States later in summer to attend a wedding and see her mom again.  

Rain storm with lots of lovely lightning and thunder tonight.  Nice way to fall asleep.

Dorota at market

Strawberries























14 June, Puławy, Poland
Yesterday in Warsaw was hot, hot, hot.  Dorota and I walked to the nearby “bazarek,” outdoor market, kind of like a farmer’s market in the US, and were sweating when we returned.  We bought fresh veggies and fruits for supper,  Strawberries are at their peak, and Polish strawberries are the best.  And I saw bób (pronounced boob), the big beans that I’ve never seen outside Poland although I hear you can find them at Whole Foods for about a day.  I bought a loaf of bread to take to Puławy; it’s the closest to a bread that Dorota makes and I love.

After shopping, it was off finally to visit POLIN, the new Museum of the History of Polish Jews that covers more than 1000 years of history.
Bima at POLIN Museum
The eight galleries of the Core Exhibit use multi-media visual and audio, photos and art to tell the story of how Jews fled persecution in Western Europe for the forests of Poland.  They eventually became the largest Jewish population on the continent.  I will need to return to appreciate the whole thing. My foot and back started to resist about half way through.  It’s all concrete flooring and you go up/down stairs frequently.  I think someone from IKEA helped them layout the exhibition as you cannot take a shortcut easily.

Today I took the train from Warszawa Centralna to Puławy to visit friend Ewa, our translator for board meetings. 

More changes at the train station — some still under construction, some implemented.  New train cars were a big surprise, including the one I rode here.  Very modern in appearance, clean, quieter than I recall.  Didn’t use the restroom but assume toilets no longer flush onto the tracks.  
Sleek new train car


Ewa teaches English in a high school and also has a small business providing certified translations.  Her husband has his own business too and is traveling.  Their daughter leaves in the morning for a school trip to Prague.  Son Alex was just graduated from high school and awaits the results of his “matura” exams to determine which universities he qualifies to attend.  All Polish high school graduates must take matura exams in several subjects in order to graduate.  Alex will attend medical school, directly out of high school as is the practice here.

Tomorrow I’m speaking to two of Ewa’s English classes.  

15 June
Another “whew!!!” moment.  After arriving yesterday, I realized I needed to prepare a totally different slide show for Ewa’s two classes — longer (the classes last almost two hours with a break halfway) and broader.  So that’s what I did.  I am continuing to surprise myself at my ability of use Keynote, then transfer to PowerPoint.  I probably shouldn’t be surprised since user friendliness is a huge reason why I buy Apple products.  But I found enough photos to make a decent presentation on Minnesota and other places that I’ve lived and/or visited.  This morning I awoke with terrible stomach acid (nerves, I’m sure) and realized that I had photos from Greece and Warsaw that I hadn’t included.  Took a Zantac (don’t leave home without them) and spent half an hour fiddling with the presentation.  Wish I’d had some London pix as Ewa lived there for some time (hence her British inflections and words when she speaks English). I got the new presentation to save in the new PPTX version (another feat) on my desktop, then copied that onto Ewa’s thumb drive which we used on her classroom laptop.

Oh, it was pouring rain when I awoke this morning too.  We weren’t sure anyone would attend class because grades have already been provided to the school administration.  Add the bad weather and if I were 18, I’d’ve stayed in bed today.

Ewa's classroom

Both classes of kids were great and well attended.  Besides introductions and my presentation, they had desserts — homemade cakes, fresh strawberries, Eton Mess (an Eton College specialty that Ewa introduced) and peanut butter-and-cucumber sandwiches (not as bad as it sounded).   The first group was older (17-18 year olds), had been studying English longer and had some good questions.  Group two included students from another class so was much larger and I think as a result, a bit more reserved.  But they did have time to administer their quiz testing my knowledge of Poland.  I didn’t do too badly … missed three or four of 25.  They gave me a lovely certificate and pen set as a ‘thank you.’

This isn’t a political blog and I don’t follow politics closely anywhere, but several of you have emailed me about Poland’s recent presidential election.  Hence, a bit of info on the drama. 

Ewa and I watched the news on television tonight and learned that Prime Minister Ewa Kopacz (yes, the PM of Poland is female) has started naming new ministers.  A few days ago half her government resigned, ostensibly over what was on some audio tapes leaked to the media a while back.  A bunch of high-ranking officials were recorded at a trendy Warsaw restaurant bad mouthing the US.  Th leaks caused quite a stir, to say the least.  And that’s undoubtedly part of the story, but some think Kopacz’s party, PO (Civic Platform), needs to make significant changes if it wants to hold the majority in this fall’s elections to the Sejm (Congress/Parliament).  

Poles, like other Europeans and Americans, want “change” from the current political landscape despite how ill-detailed those changes may be by the self-appointed change agents.  PO has been in power for quite some time, and Poland’s done well under their leadership, having for example avoided the last global economic crisis.  The president elect’s party, PiS (Law & Justice), is the party of the dead president Lech Kaczynski and his twin brother and former PM Jarosław Kaczynski.  You’ve probably heard me refer to the Kaczynskis as the “the chipmunks,” the animals used to portray them on Polski Zoo, a TV satire on Polish politics that I watched faithfully when I first arrived here in 1991.

In the May presidential election, President Komorowski was forced into a run off by a rock musician (independent Paweł Kukiz) and a virtually unknown lawyer (last minute PiS candidate Andrzej Duda).  In total, 11 candidates from other parties provided necessary signatures to be on the ballot of the total of 23 who registered or expressed public interest.  

In round one Duda actually got more votes than Komorowski, but not enough to win.  In round two Duda got more than 51 per cent of the votes.  Duda’s a young, good looking, charismatic fellow who’ll have limited power as president (the prime minister “rules” in Poland).  But with the good showing of his party in the presidential race, the worry for many now is the fall elections to the Sejm.  They fear that PiS will take the nation backward.

16 June
Awoke at 5:50 am to such bright sunshine that I was sure it was 8.  Since I didn’t need to be up, I laid back down and dozed until 8.  It is a gorgeous day outside so I’ll get ready and take a walk while Ewa’s at school.  When she returns, we’re going to do a bit of sightseeing to places I haven’t seen before.

Later

Ruins of Janowiec Castle

Menorah at
Kazimierz Dolny
I walked for more than an hour, then returned to have a small lunch and read until Ewa returned.  We drove to Janowiec Castle and Kazimierz Dolny, including a short ferry ride across the Wisła River from one to the other. Janowiec was built in the 16th Century by Mikołaj Firlej and sits high above the village of Janowiec.  Like my favorite castle in Poland, Krzyżtopór, Janowiec was seriously damaged by the “Swedish hordes” in the mid 17th Century and despite subsequent owners’ efforts, it remained largely a ruins. It’s now part of a larger regional museum.  Kazimierz Dolny is a medieval town of the same vintage as Sandomierz, only it gets many times more tourists because the town’s been organized for them for years and roadway access to the town from Warsaw is much better.  My first visit was as a Peace Corps trainee in 1991 … and they were pretty well prepared even then.  This trip Ewa and I specifically went to see how the old synagogue, which was being used as a movie theater when I visited in ’92.  More recently, it had been turned into a museum of Kazimierz Jewry.  The museum currently has a photo display about Jewish life in the town. 

When we got back to Ewa’s, I went online and learned that my brother-in-law Jim has died of cancer in Fargo.  Jim was my late ex-husband Bob’s youngest brother and a member of our wedding party.  I called Joan, his wife, and talked briefly to her and to my sister-in-law Elyse, wife of Steve, the last of the four Hagen boys.  I wasn’t able to reach Mark, Jim’s older son.  The funeral will be Friday in Fargo.  When I get to Hala’s tomorrow, I’ll see if I can make it to Fargo in time.

17 June, Hala & Michał’s farm, Cermin, Poland, near Sandomierz
Remember the film Planes, Trains & Automobiles?  That’s what I feel like, only you can add buses to the list.  I took a fully packed mini-bus from Lublin to Sandomierz this afternoon.  After circumnavigating road work on the bus station’s street in Sandomierz, Hala and I finally connected.  Home at last.

Kozłowski Palace
This morning Ewa and I set out at 8:30 from Puławy to Kozłówski Palace, a beautiful palace last owned by the Zamojski family (they built Zamość where Hala, Steve and I visited after the board meeting).  The lack of road signs to direct us troubled Ewa for a bit, but we eventually found a couple and eventually, the palace … only to discover no tour tickets were available until 12:30, the time we needed to be in Lublin. We visited an exhibition about bathrooms, quite interesting.  Then, while I visited the museum of Soviet sculptures, intrepid Ewa returned to the ticket seller to check on no shows for the 11 am tour and was successful.  The tour was well worth the effort.  Although the guide spoke in Polish, she spoke evenly, simply and in just the right amount of detail.  None of the “in the beginning God created the Heavens and the Earth” stuff we used to always get on tours.

Part of bath exhibit


Entrance to Communist \art exhibit:
The Enemy will entice
you with Coca Cola
The drive to Lublin was over a new highway and fast, we found parking near the bus station, bought my ticket for the 3:35 mini-bus to Sandomierz, then went in search of lunch.  A restaurant that Ewa remembered, The Vanilla Cafe, had been remodeled but still offered delicious food including its own flourless Thousand Year Cake.  We shared one piece that would have fed at least two more, but it was so worth the calories.  Ewa has a recipe, less sweet she said; she’ll send it to me.
Ceiling of Vanilla Cafe

Ticketed passengers and reservations were able to board the 20-or-so person mini-bus first, and I’m so thankful I had a ticket.  We were so full that four non-reservation passengers were left behind.  And buses between Lublin and Sandomierz are few and far between.  I waved to Ewa and off we went.

Once at the farm, I checked online to see if it would be possible to fly back to the US for Jim’s funeral on Friday.  And between time zones and an exorbitant cost, I can’t make it.  Travel sucks when you’re far away at times like these.  My sister’s going to take care of sending flowers for us.  And I’ve already emailed several friends about a possible road trip to Fargo to see Joan and to Brainerd to see brother-in-law Steve and family when I’m back in Minneapolis.

19 June, Sandomierz
Argh!  I am definitely not used to working all day.  I put on my big-lady clothes (dressy pants suit from my former life) and went to a conference the Center held for winners of its business plan competition for area high schools.  It was fun to see what the student teams’ “dream” businesses are, and I can see some promise in a few.  I especially liked “The Modern Witches” and also the group working with bees and honey.  It was hard sitting for hours, despite the breaks, so I didn’t stay for lunch.  Walked back to the Center office (the conference was at the castle) and had a Greek salad … and edited the hotel’s restaurant menu.  I found a couple of typos as I was looking for something light to eat, and once an editor …  I know Monika, the restaurant owner/manager, so I don’t think she’ll be offended.

Zara, my sleeping companion, looks a lot like Stu

22 June, home sweet home in Minneapolis MN USA
Saturday was a day of sorting and packing and driving.  Hala drove me to Warsaw because she was receiving an award for her and the Center’s work with entrepreneurs at a gala that evening.  I was her “plus one,” something I’ve been many times since I’ve known her because Michał won’t attend such events.  Though long for someone facing a 4 am wake up call, the event was nicely done and efficiently run, and food and drink abounded as it only can at a Polish affair.  We exited shortly after the dance band started.

Sunday’s travel to the US was uneventful.  In AMS, I helped the young man seated next to me on the WAW-AMS flight and his friends through Immigration (you leave the EU in AMS when going to the US).  They were flying for the first time and en route to New York City to take part in a work-travel program. 

My sister picked me up at MSP, and later we went to dinner at Ling & Louie’s on Nicollet Mall.  I walked, wearing a new pair of shoes.  Wrong thing to do, but thankfully I could ride the free bus most of the way back. Once home, I couldn’t keep myself awake.  I was sound asleep by 7:30.  Now here I am, awake at 4 am and unable to go back to sleep.  Jet lag — another part of travel that sucks. 

Just read in today’s theSkimm email that LOT, the Polish airline, had its system hacked and 1400 passengers were left without flights yesterday.  Wow!  Glad I wasn’t on LOT.

23 June
Back to water ex today.  Felt good.  Should help me sleep longer tonight.  I was awake at 3:30 this morning and finally got out of bed at 4:30 since I knew I’d never fall back to sleep.  Had two big things on my “to do” list, and one was to email my high school friend Suzie about a time for us to talk about our class’ 70th birthday party this fall.  And what did I find when I opened my email — a message from Suzie about the party.  I’m working on the email list while she works on venues.  The other big thing was to schedule my bone density test, which I did after water ex when the clinic was open.

26 June
Talked to Inga yesterday, and I’ll go to DC on 6 July for a week.   Inga and Tosia leave for three weeks in Poland on 2 July.  Frankie’s friend Aga will leave on 7th, then she’s alone until she leaves for CA with a friend’s family.  So I’ll go there to keep her company.  It’ll be hotter than hell, but I do love being in the area.  Will have to think of something fun for Frankie … day trip somewhere, maybe.

Went out to Apple the other night and got help transferring our class email list to e-vites.  I doubt that I could do it again on my own, but at least the bulk of people are online.  I can input updates as we get them.

28 June
A wild and busy day.  Up for an early Skype call with Violane who’s seven hours later in Belgrade, then quick look at email and CBS Sunday Morning and off to an hour of high intensity water ex with Andrew (got a preview of this class when he subbed for my Saturday morning class).  After the shower, shave etc. routine, I drove over to Janet & Ed’s hoping to catch their son Thom and secure a ride to the airport next Sunday.  Mission accomplished, along with some quality time catching up with Janet.  I no sooner got home than my sister Barbara called and asked me to come look at a condo that Tomery was considering.  My niece has decided to buy a condo rather than rent; she’s already qualified with the bank and wants to spend much less than they’ll lend her if she can, but downtown area locations are in high demand.  The condo is not far from Barbara’s in the North Loop (old Warehouse District).  It’s in a late 19th century building — high ceilings, exposed beams and air ducts, big windows with lots of light.  Small galley kitchen with stainless steel appliances.  Loft bedroom with two huge closets.  Two big closets in entry hall with washer and dryer in one nearest the nicely appointed bathroom.  Just under 800 square feet and a great price.  She’s put in an offer, and now we all wait.  Once back home, I finally got a bite of lunch and a few minutes to relax while the skies darkened.  I decided not to walk over to Loring Park for the Pride Festival.  It’s always crowded but this year, following the Supreme Court ruling, the place will be even more jammed and not really need my support.  A brief but short downpour. Then clean clothes and make up to prepare for dinner with Barbara and my niece Michelle at a new Italian restaurant downtown.  No more rain and I wanted the exercise, so I chose to grab an umbrella and walk.  Dinner was excellent — company and food.  The restaurant is in the same location as the old Forum whose art deco interior is historically protected.  Haven’t been in there for decades, but when I moved here in the ‘70s and worked downtown, friends and I used to go to the Forum for lunch.  Walked home and enjoyed half an hour on my deck, then this and soon bed.  I’m pooped.

30 June
What a storm we had yesterday, a real gulley washer complete with lightning and one-inch hail balls.  I had driven up to Andover to see nephew Craig, his fiancee and son Alijah (Jaiden is in South Dakota for a while), and we all went to The Olive Garden for dinner.  As we were packing leftovers, Craig noticed the dark sky and we could hear the hail.  The parking lot was dotted with small ponds of water and and ice balls.  The storm was heading in the direction of downtown Minneapolis, just like I was, so it rained all the way home.

July will mean more travel.  Friend Inga leaves for Poland on Thursday with Tosia, and I’ll fly to DC on Sunday to be Frankie’s “adult presence” for a week.  In between, Tomek will play that role.  And when I leave, Frankie flies off to California with a friend and her family.  Later in the month I will probably make a quick short trip to Vermont.  Dianna, a friend from my Macedonia days, received a bad health diagnosis.  It will be wonderful to see her, just wish the occasion were less stressful.  On a more positive note: Jean will be here from CA, relaxing at her cabin where I’ll visit; Jim and Irina will be in town from Moldova; and a group of us is all set to watch fireworks and celebrate my brother’s birthday on Saturday, the Fourth of July!

New taxi service in Warsaw




Saturday, June 13, 2015



What to say about May?

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ALL READERS:
Come September, I will stop sending the blog manually.  It’s time consuming and I have little info re who actually would like to receive/read it.  So, IF you are interested in following my adventures,  please add yourself as a “follower” on the blog site and it’ll automatically come to you when I post.  Apologies for any inconvenience … and no hard feelings if you don’t sign on.  Suzi

1 May 2015, Labor Day in much of the world but not in Minneapolis MN USA
The month is starting off well.  Dance partner Larry continues to keep in touch, and we did “happy hour” at an outdoor table at Barbette on Lake Street tonight.  Mussels were on the menu and were huge, the biggest I’ve ever seen. We ordered several servings (they’re among Larry’s favorite foods) along with some cheeses and fruit, beer for him, white wine for me.  After a relaxing drive around Lake Calhoun, he took me home.  I’d been up at 3 am for some reason, plus I can’t dance yet.  But, all in all, a lovely way to start the weekend and month. 

3 May 2015, Constitution Day in Poland but not MN
Heavy rain and lots of hail in Minneapolis at the moment.  Thankfully it waited, as forecasted, until late afternoon to start … and that it did.  A real gully washer complete with pea-sized hail in abundance.  We’re on our third iteration at the moment.  In between, the sun peaks out and tantalizes us with the possibility of a pretty sundown.  Probably not going to happen.  But we need the rain.  Not as much as California but still …

Heart of the Beast Puppet Theater organizes a May Day parade here for the Sunday nearest that holiday, which is Labor Day in most of the rest of the world.  And that was today.  Larry and I found some shade along Bloomington Avenue not far from the parade start and watched as puppets, dancers, musicians, and more walked, danced marched past.  I took lots of pix to post.



I was planning to help my sister prepare for Tomery’s move, but Barbara cleaned all day and was too tired.  We’ll do that next weekend, and in the meantime I’ll help Tomery prepare for the move.  She really needs to sort clothes and not take everything.  She’s decided to buy a condo rather than rent, a good move considering her mortgage payment could be less than the monthly rent on a studio apartment (minimally it’s $1350!).

Jan called from Apple Valley where she’d attended a piano recital by two of her three granddaughters.  En route home, she stopped by.  We watched the rain and hail for a bit, then headed for the new Wedge Table, an informal eat-in deli that the coop opened over on Eat Street (Nicollet Avenue). Decent food and prices in a utilitarian atmosphere that screams “clean and sanitary.”

Ran into neighbor and fellow board member Jonathan in the garage, and we had a lovely chat.  He may go to Mixed Blood Theater with me on Friday if Larry can’t.

4 May
Sunny skies are always an inspiration.  Thus I started the day with a load of laundry, then off to Target for a few returns and purchases and Ace Hardware for a kitchen light bulb (no luck in getting one unfortunately, but the “helpful hardware man,” as the Ace commercial touts, suggested where I might find one.  Then I called the dentist and made a long, long overdue appointment for a teeth cleaning, answered emails and went through my online photos of Minnesota.  Friend and Polish teacher Dorota has asked me to talk to her son’s class about Minnesota when I’m in Warsaw and I’ve agreed.  I also emailed Heidi, my nephew David's wife, and requested photos of the kids "doing stuff" for my presentation.

My foot’s swollen, probably because I didn’t ice it first thing as I’ve been doing.  So … that’s next on the agenda.

5 May
After water ex and coffee with the “girls,” I drove north to Andover to see my nephew Craig and their new house.  Only he, Alijah, who’ll soon be two, and the three cats were home.  They have a lovely big house with lots of room inside and a pond in the back.  Craig said they were assured that mosquito abatement was done well.  Two nests of wood ducks have hatched in their backyard and already the ducklings are gone.  

Alijah is almost two!

April's cats enjoyed my visit too

Tonight friend Linda and I went to Jungle Theater to see “And the World Goes On and On,” a musical tribute to Kander & Ebb, a Broadway composer and lyricist who did Cabaret, Chicago, The Woman of the Year, Zorba and a other musicals I didn’t recognize.  Well done and fun.  I told Linda that I might try to rejoin her for the Monday walk around Lake Harriet next week.  Might not get all the way but want to get back into the routine.

7 May
Yesterday I babied my foot most of the day because it didn’t feel very well after water ex, skipping a presentation and tour of the Center for Victims of Torture and Abuse sponsored by MINN (Minnesota NGO Network, of which I’m a member).  I think it’s more the driving (shifting gears with my left foot) than the class that causes it to be uncomfortable, so I try to minimize the driving … but I can’t do a lot of walking yet either.  Catch 22.  Just as I was trying to figure out what to do re dinner (order in, eat out, drive to Whole Foods), Larry called to see what I was up to.  Long story short, he drove me to Whole Foods where I picked up a few things, then we went to Toast for wine and small plates.  I offered to take him to the train station on Friday morning; he’s going to New Orleans for the weekend.  An oil train derailment and subsequent fire have delayed trains so he needs to check first.

Today started with breakfast with Jan and another St. Paul Companies friend M, who was recently at Mayo for treatment.  Wonderful to see how well she’s doing.  Later Jan and i went to the yarn shop. I wanted some help with the sweater I’m making my sister. The staff weren’t terribly service minded, but I think I know what to do.  Finished the day with work at the library bookstore, only to learn it’s closing at the end of May.  The board of Friends of the Hennepin County Library has decided to concentrate on fund raising.  Our smaller group of Friends of the Central Library has staffed the bookstore on Thursday nights, and I had been volunteering.  No one knows what will go into the prime location where the bookstore resides, but our group has other activities it supports too.

8 May, Peter’s Yahrzeit
Sixteen years ago today my son Peter died.  Usually I go to the synagogue with my friend Susan for Peter’s yahrzeit, a Jewish tradition of remembering those who have died; Susan’s mother’s yahrzeit is a day after Peter’s.  It’s a short service that includes saying the mourners’ kaddish.  We’ll go tomorrow since today’s Friday, and we don’t want to sit through the regular, longer Friday service.  

Peter at 13, me, Carrie the Cat & my new Prelude
All dolled up for our 1986 holiday photo

Since the garage and carpets in my building were to be cleaned today, when I left to take Larry to the train at 6:15 am, I could not return until after 4 pm.  So, after the trip to Union Depot in St. Paul and my usual water ex class, I went out to breakfast, hung out at my neighborhood local coffee shop, then went over to Janet & Ed’s for a while.  Janet and I had a good gab while she cleaned her up kitchen, and when I left, I walked without limping for the first time since January.   Then on to a massage, which was my first in months and definitely needed.  The massage therapist is within walking distance of where I live, handy for when I can walk, and she did a good job; I’ll return.

Friend Fern went with me to see Pussy Valley at Mixed Blood Theater, a play about the lives of four pole dancers.  An incredible production.  The authenticity of the actresses who actually pole danced throughout the show was astounding, as was the story line.  That theater continues to offer thought provoking productions that I’m pleased to support.

11 May
Jan, a friend from my Women for Women International tenure, sent photos today of her induction into the inaugural University of California-Berkeley Women's Soccer Hall of Fame.  Wow! I didn't even know she played soccer until she told me about this honor.  She's one of eight; the rest of Olympians, professionals and such.  Plus Jan was given the first Lifetime Achievement Award which was then named for her.  Double wow!  Her niece who wants to follow in Jan's footsteps at Cal-Berkeley already wears Jan's #5.  Jan was with us in Scotland last summer, biking everywhere, even in the rain, so I shared her message and photos with her Ayr housemates.  Oh, after the CA trip, Jan was off to bike in Peru.

Jan, her niece and jersey #5 

16 May, Art-a-Whirl Saturday
i’ve been busy (or lazy) and not written in a while.  Art-a-Whirl is a weekend of open houses in artists’ studios, music and food in Northeast Minneapolis.  Northeast Minneapolis Artist Association (NEMAA) is the sponsor, and it’s just gotten bigger and bigger over the years.  Larry and I went for a few hours today and although the sun didn’t actually shine, it didn’t rain.  This is the first time I’ve been around for Art-a-Whirl in years.

Moving backwards, on Mother’s Day, friend Marilou and I went to St. Paul’s Park Square Theater for The Language Archive, another excellent production, this one on communication. Then we used one of my e-Rewards gift certificates for supper at the Loop Restaurant and Bar.  First trip there, good food and fantastic onion rings.  

On Tuesday, neighbor and friend Maryanne and I finally got together and walked over to our favorite happy hour only to find it’s now no open until 4 pm.  Not a good sign.  We retreated to The Nicollet Cafe and shared a quite good quesadilla instead.  

Hair cut and color on Wednesday — I’m a new person.  Then lunch in St. Paul with Peace Corps friends Tom and Sabrina to celebrate Tom’s birthday and a quick trip up to Andover to drop off some things for nephew Craig.  Long and busy day.

Thursday friend Janet and I ventured up to Westminster Town Hall Forum to hear NYTimes columnist David Brooks.  The church was packed, as we’d expected (similar to when Al Gore spoke a few years ago — two large meeting rooms in addition to the huge sanctuary and its balcony).  Brooks was on a book tour so used examples from his book to define and discuss character.  Nothing unexpected in what he had to say, he dodged any political questions.  

Thursday evening I did my final volunteer stint in the library book store.  It’s closing at the end of May.  Unclear why but apparently the board of the overall Friends of Hennepin County Library made the decision.  

Friday I had coffee with Karen, another development person with whom I’ve been playing tag for some time.  Neither of us can recall who suggested we meet — it’s been so long since our initial contact — but I learned that she knows my friend Violane.  They worked together in Lebanon.

Oh, Heidi sent me some fantastic photos for my slide show in Poland.  I'm going to add some here so you can see how much Sam, John and Evie have grown.

Sam at the lake

Evie may dress up like the Frozen princess
but she is a real heart melter!

Now is John were in Poland, I'd say
say he was at an ognisko




















19 May, Minneapolis-St. Paul Airport.  Nephew Christopher is 30 today!
Since picking up my college roommate and friend Marilyn at The Humph (Humphrey Terminal of the Minneapolis-St. Paul airport), it’s been a whirlwind of eating.  She, my sister and I had an excellent meal at Brasserie Zentral — Barbara and I had lamb chops to die for.  Sunday May and I took her niece Amy and fiancé Tony to dinner at Borough, delicious and interesting menu, and last night the clan gathered for Chris’ 30th birthday celebration. Whew!  I definitely need to be careful what I eat while I’m gone.  

The crowd is gathering for the 3:10 flight to AMS, and it will be child-full  A family with two pre-schoolers and twins in arms just sat next to me.  Another family across the way is traveling with seven kids from child in arms to probably junior hi-er.  And it’s a full flight.  Wish me luck in getting some rest.

21 May, Hotel Basztowy, Sandomierz, Poland
Well, I got a little rest on the trans-Atlantic but not much — and it had nothing to do with kids, or even the 20-something Chatty Kathy who sat next to me.  It was just that (*&%*((#@ departure time of 3:10.  Arrival at AMS is around 6 am Dutch time or 11 pm in the US — my bedtime.  Three-plus hour layover and not able to walk well.  My left foot didn’t like being in a downward position all night.  Finally nodded off on the AMS-WAW flight which took the edge off the three-plus hour wait for Steve’s arrival via London (his flight was late).  The drive to Sandomierz included a stop at Impresja where we contributed our share to Poland’s economy and bought Bolesławiec and Krosno (well known pottery and glass makers).  We arrived here around 7:30 pm due to much heavier traffic than we usually encounter.  Dinner on the patio outside the dining room, dessert indoors as a thunderstorm arrived.  Then to an early bedtime.

Awake today at 3:30 and finally got up and showered an hour later.  I beat the cook to the dining room by at least an hour; it doesn’t open for breakfast until 7.  So I’m sitting in the lobby bar area going through 84 emails, updating this blog and finally posting April.

23 May
Whew!  It’s been busy since my arrival.  When I did the last entry, I was waiting for the Hotel Basztowy restaurant to open so I could have some coffee and breakfast.  Shortly after eating, I went to Hala’s office and met with our board chair Ryszard, Steve and Hala to review some items for the meeting, then off to “Nefretete,” the salon for a mani-pedi.  I’ve been going to this salon since it opened six years ago and was not only pleased to see she’s expanded her operation and now has two employees but that she was among the clients we visited yesterday.  

Steve and I went to Hala’s farm for lunch (read: dinner of Ukrainian soup, chicken livers and mashed potatoes, and cakes plus her husband Michał’s latest liqueur, a lemon-coffee blend that Steve said was quite nice.)  Michał’s brother Marcin is visiting from Switzerland (his wife is in Częstochowa, her hometown, for another day).  We tried to get Marcin to tell tales on his little brother but he kept saying Michał was a nice boy.  Hard to believe!  Steve told us that his wife Kim is retiring in July; she’s academic dean at a small private liberal arts college in upstate New York.  That will be a big change for them.  Steve’s been working from home for a long time and used to his own leisurely yet productive work style.  Since he left TechnoServe, he’s done some freelance assignments but is basically retired too.

Evening meant another big meal with board members who’d arrived.  That’s the official start of the board weekend, so I am back in my only eating half mode … I only eat half of everything I’m served because the hotel is notorious for over-feeding us.

Yesterday we had a full day of visiting clients in and around the town — several cafes, a tour operator who uses electric carts to show visitors around, a shop specializing in locally produced products, an educational center, the city’s oldest church which is revitalizing its wine producing tradition by training grape growers and vintners.  We had lunch in a family-friendly restaurant that was built in an underground apple storage and is located in a recently developed city park near the hotel and Old Town.  

Back at the hotel, we finished the afternoon with staff presentations on the year’s activities and an incomplete strategic plan. The new mayor joined us for the first part and later for dinner.  I have to compliment Monika who’s taken over the restaurant.  She has heard our plea for less food while continuing the tradition of delicious offerings.  She did, however, serve kolacja (supper) about 30 minutes after obiad (dinner) was finished, a board meeting tradition that we all carp about but nibble at while we continue talking.  

Today we have the formal board meeting with several resolutions that require passing, then lunch and most will leave.  Steve, Hala and I will go to Zamość and Lublin on Sunday-Monday, then Steve and I take the train to Warsaw.  He’ll fly out on Tuesday, and I’ll go to Dorota’s until I fly to Paris on Friday.  Hala, Ewa (our translator and friend) and I will discuss my return to this area during my final week in Poland.  I want to spend a couple of days in Puławy at Ewa’s.

This afternoon I’ll do a bit of shopping for things to take home and with me to Paris and Greece, and i need to work on my presentations about Minnesota.  Dorota asked me to speak to her son Franek’s class — 14  eight-year-old kids in their second year of English.  I have lots of photos, books and maps for them.  And on learning that, Ewa has asked me to talk to her English class — 16 and 17 year olds.  In the meantime, it’s 3 am … so I haven’t conquered the jet lag yet.  Perhaps I’ll try to go back to sleep again. Dobranoc.

25 May, on the train from Lublin to Warsaw
Well, I never did fall back to sleep but made up for it Saturday night.  After wandering the square and shopping with Steve after the board luncheon, I returned to my room for a nap … and awoke six hours later, around 10 pm.  Got up and packed my suitcases so I’d be ready for Hala, then went back to sleep until 7 am.  Finally in the right time zone!

Sunday Hala went to vote in the presidential election, then she, Steve and I drove to the Renaissance town of Zamość where we met Piotr, an English-speaking tour guide that she’d arranged.  Despite the overcast and chilly day, we had a couple of hours of walking back in time.  Zamość was Poland’s first planned city and one of the first in Europe.  It was owned by Jan Zamojski, a well-educated, well-traveled lawyer who was a counselor to the king as well as “hetman,” head of the army.  Zamojski had the town built on the by an Italian architect, an “ideal town” combining defense, residences and commerce in one well fortified, laid out place.  It withstood both the Cossack siege and Swedish “hordes” of the 17th Century. It was to be the capital of Nazi Germany’s eastern territory/  While the town wasn’t destroyed in World War II, 8000 people were killed in the Rotunda, part of a Nazi plan to exterminate the Polish inteligensja and to make way for German colonists who never materialized in great numbers due to the rebellious locals.

From its start, Zamość’s population was incredibly diverse due to some migrations taking place in the 16th and 17th Centuries.  It attracted Armenians, Ukrainians, Scots, Romanians, Italians, Turks and more.  Sephardic Jews from the Iberian peninsula made up half the population.  A synagogue, Eastern Orthodox church, Catholic church and Armenian Orthodox church were all included in the planned town.  Piotr said each of the larger groups had a section of the town and main street.  The Armenians were among the wealthiest, and houses on Ormiańska Street remain excellent examples that period. 

The town with its gridded streets is well preserved with examples from many important periods in its history and in 1992 was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

From Zamość, we drove a couple of hours to Lublin where Hala’s brother lives.  His wife Małgosia met us at our hotel in the Old Town and guided us to an outdoor concert in the city’s main park, then to dinner at their flat.  She was our guide today too.

This was my fourth visit to Lublin.  The first was in ’94 to see Hala’s brother who was then still a practicing dentist.  Don’t recall what he did to my teeth or tooth, just climbing a lot of staircases to get to his home office.  Two subsequent visits were with friends and showed us the city making progress to repair and renovate the castle and buildings in the Old Town.  Today I saw the huge progress that’s been made and work that continues.  Like so many post-Communist places, ownership of property remains in question, making progress slow and difficult. 

Małgosia took us to the now beautifully renovated castle, built originally in the 14th Century by King Kazimierz the Great who built strategically placed castles all over Poland, and around the Old Town which is reminiscent of so many old cities that I love — cobble-stone streets that bend and turn and promise some surprise around each corner.

Lublin was the site of the Union of Lublin which united Poland and Lithuania in the 15th Century.    Adam Mickiewicz, an important Polish poet from the 19th Century, was actually from the Lithuanian portion of the country which ended up in Russia during the last partition of Poland.  (Does that sentence make sense?  In the 19th Century the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth was invaded by its neighbors and partitioned among them. Under the Third Partition in 1795 Prussia, Austro-Hungary and Russia each annexed a portion, effectively wiping Poland from the map for 123 years.  It was “reunited” at the end of World War I.) 

Like Zamość, Lublin had a diverse population religiously including both Protestants after the Reformation and a sizable Jewish population that was annihilated in World War II.  It’s a center of education with three major universities and additional technical and other higher ed institutions.  It was great to see Małgosia again and have the benefit of her knowledge of her city and see it “rising” again.

(N.B.  I actually took photos but for some reason I cannot get them to download into my laptop.  Another sign that I'l due for a new iPhone!)

26 May
Election results are in and President Komorowski was defeated by a youthful upstart Andrzej Duda.  Initially Komorowski seemed likely to win, but his campaign was apparently so lackadaisical that he, Duda and a rock singer, a real surprise, were the top three candidates in the first round.  No one I know is terribly happy with the outcome even though the presidency in Poland is largely ceremonial, much like in France.  But the election results don’t bode well for Komorowski’s party which has led the ruling coalition for a number of years of prosperity and stability.  The real issue will be how this election’s results affect fall’s elections to the Sejm (Congress/Parliament). 

27 May, Warsaw
My foot is protesting more than I’d like so I returned early from the center today and found that Dorota and Franek were already home at 3:30.  The weather’s been miserable — dark, damp and discouraging.  I learned when I first moved to Poland in November 1991 that air pressure and such affect me (and others) physically, something my US friends usually pooh-pooh.  But today, despite a good long sleep, I was pooped … and so was Dorota.  So we headed to our rooms for a nap.  I awoke two-plus hours later, having actually fallen asleep.  Dorota said she’d just gotten up a few minutes before.  While we napped, Franek entertained himself.  Good kid!

As I’ve mentioned before, Dorota and her friend and business partner Małgosia were my Peace Corps language teachers and 20+ years ago, they started a private language school to teach Polish to foreigners.  When I lived in Warsaw, I attended some classes … and I decided that during this trip, I’d do that again.  I had a couple of lessons via Internet with my teacher Edyta when I was recovering from the “foot incident.”  Now I get to talk as well as do exercises on paper.  I go for an hour each day and hope to improve at least a little!
Last night I met friend Iza for dinner in a lovely small restaurant near her flat.  It serves excellently prepared traditional food.  We shared pasztet (patė) with cranberries, I had Russian pierogis (potato and cheese with fried onions) and Iza had potato pancakes.  We tried a white wine suggested by the water.  It was well chilled and grapefruity, which I like, so we indulged in two glasses each.  In between sipping and munching, we talked and talked.  Iza’s mother died in Kraków not long ago, and she’s still dealing with all of that in addition to her busy job that requires international travel. After dinner, I sloshed a couple of blocks to the bus stop and made my way back to Dorota and Jacek’s flat … where of course Dorota was ready to feed me.

28 May
The sun is shining!  I awoke at about 5:30 am to the sun shining through the window.  Hurray.  At last what looks to be a nice day.

Later
It’s been an utterly lovely day, weather- and otherwise.  I started with coffee with my friend Maryla at the Marriott.  I haven’t seen her in a year because our schedules have zigged and zagged, and they are this time too.  Coffee was all we could manage as she leaves for a two week conference in Budapest just after I leave for Paris and she returns the day before I leave for home.  Then I trammed over to an Indian restaurant and waited for Marta, Hala’s daughter, who leaves this weekend for a three-week car trip to Corsica with her beau Łukasz.  It was fun to hear her talk about how it’s been planned; they’ll stop quite a few times along the way for more than just a night so they can see Vienna, Venice and other places along the way — including two amusement parks.  After my Polish lesson, burdened with praca domowa (home work), I did a bit of last minute shopping and returned here.  Time for email, reading, a short rest and enjoying the fresh air.  Franek has two school friends over for a play date.  Dorota and Jacek have taken them to the park to wear off a bit of their eight-year-old energy.

30 May, Paris, France
What a lovely way to start the weekend in Paris — sunshine and warm breezes along the Seine.

Arrived mid afternoon yesterday on Air France which has moved up to my #1 favorite airline.  Only a French airline would have good coffee!  More to the point, when I made the reservation via Delta, AF put me in business class on that flight and my Monday flight to Athens. 

The Viator van was fairly prompt to pick me up.  Unlike my other rides with them, I wasn’t alone … we stopped at several hotels so got a view of most of Paris in my two-plus hour ride.  I was next to last out.  Used texts to contact David and Nara, and we met at my hotel, then went for dinner not far away in a lovely upscale-pub type place where I had incredible carpaccio, Nara a delicious salmon and David a nicely cooked steak … plus a good French red of course. 

Today I’m meeting David and Nara near their old flat and we’ll have lunch, then go to Musée Marmottan, my favorite museum in Paris.  I had hoped to see the famous French catacombs but  we can’t, partly because of timing (long lines won’t ensure we are at their new flat for the walk-through on time) and also my foot isn’t ready to walk down 130 steps and up 83 with a 45 or so minute tour betwixt.  It is screaming after my morning walk along the Quai Austerlitz. 

On my first trip here in winter ’90-’91, Polly, Rosie and I went to the Marmottan.  It has the largest, and needless to say, most spectacular collection of Monets anywhere as well as an impressive collection in general, mostly of Impressionists.  The museum started as a wealthy man’s hunting lodge in the 19th Century and was bought by Marmottan whose son eventually donated his art collection and the building to the nation.  Most of the Monets were donated by Monet’s second son Paul; seems to me he got into tax problems and the donated settled the claims.  Others have also donated collections.  Anyway, it’s a wonderful place to visit and I’m happy to go again with David and Nara.

When I walked this morning, I was surprised to see two “tent cities”  of homeless people under cover of the roadway above.  In each location, a couple of dozen small dome-style tents topped pallets (or in one case, a mattress).  I cannot imagine such a place in the US; they’d be rousted by the police and sleeping in doorways.  But here at least they have a dry place to sleep.  I’m not sure what the shelter situation is like in Paris.

31 May
Being in Paris is a great way to end a month, even if it’s a dreary, rainy day.  I indulged again in the hotel’s extensive and expensive buffet breakfast.  This time I had less food and made a hearty sandwich to take a long for dinner tonight.  I had thought of going to the cafe next door, where I had dinner last night, but I knew I’d only get one coffee and I knew I needed at least two “cafe longhe.”  

I took the Metro to David and Nara’s stop where I met them and we proceeded across the city to the foot of Montmarte.  A short distance from the Metro was a cafe David had found that has great bunches.  But to get there we had to climb about 20 stair cases.  Definitely getting my exercise today.  We all opted for something other than the set brunch — it looked like enough food for four.  I had Quiche Lorraine which was light and tasty.  Next, a walk in the rain to a different Metro stop in hopes of fewer steps down (going down is a lot harder on my foot than coming up).  Well, it was a few fewer anyway.  We said our goodbyes over a glass of wine at my neighborhood cafe.

Since I’d called Viator to confirm my pick up tomorrow morning, I knew I’d need rest.  Once in my room, I immediately fell asleep for almost two hours.  Then, wide awake, I ate my sandwich from this morning, took a walk across the bridge and partway down the quai on other side, then back again to print my boarding pass and pack.  Soon to bed.

Ahhh, it’s been a good day and a good month.
Maury & Andrew's son Roland agrees!
Maury's surgery went well.