Friday, July 5, 2013

It’s raining, it’s pouring ...


It’s raining, it’s pouring ...

1 June 2013, Warsaw, Poland
This month is starting out well.  Yesterday I did some laundry so that I’d have clean undies and tees when I’m in Scotland next week.  Since I’m staying at my friend Marta’s (my old) flat and her beau Łukaś is also here, I offered to do his light colored items too.  After all, he’s cooked both nights for us.  This morning all was dry, and my two tee-shirts needed a bit of ironing.  I told Łukaś that I’d iron his dress shirt too, and he replied, “You don’t need to.  I like to iron.”  In my entire life I have never before met a man who likes to iron ... and I’m the only woman I know who confesses to that.  One more reason why I like Marta’s fella.  And adding to the good start-of-the-month, the two little black rectangles are gone from my desktop. Hmmm.....

4 June 2013, Ayr, Scotland
After expecting cold, rainy weather, my friend Connie and I have been more than pleasantly surprised at the sunshine and warm days we’ve had so far.

Connie left Minneapolis on Saturday, I left Warsaw on Sunday and the ‘twain’ met in Amsterdam for the flight together to Glasgow.  I know Connie was getting nervous about whether I’d make it, and frankly so was I.  I only had 45 minutes between flights to start with.  Then my flight left about 10 minutes late and of course once we arrived, everyone moved like the proverbial molasses in January to deplane.  I don’t think I’ve walked that fast through an airport since I ran my sister through O’Hare in my college days.  Huffing and puffing I made it to the Glasgow gate, saw Connie in the inner waiting area; she’d cleared the security hurdle but not checked onto the plane.  Big smile, big wave, easy flight.  Unfortunately KLM broke one of the four wheels on her suitcase, so we made a long detour to get the paperwork for a claim on her flight insurance.  

Our rental car was easy to find but not so easy to start; the ignition lock took a bit of work to finally get things going.  However, with limited terror on Connie’s part, we got out of the airport, onto the highway and into Ayr.  She was a great navigator despite her protests.  Since I’d stayed on the same street last year, I had a vague idea where we were going once we got to Ayr Town Centre ... and we finally got there in one piece.  Phew.  Got settled, then went out walking and for dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant.
Connie in the driver's seat

This B&B is across the street from where I stayed a year ago. We have a clear view across the back yard to the sea front, as it’s called on the road signs.  Quite comfortable and nicely done.  No common lounge as in the other, and breakfast is either at 7 am or our preferred, 8:30.  Connie tried the “full Scottish” yesterday and didn’t eat again until dinner last night.




The manager/cook/cleaner is Magdalena from southwestern Poland, and she was quite excited to learn of my Polish connections.  Connie shared with Magdalena the Śliwki candies that I had brought for her.

Yesterday we wandered Ayr and window shopped, I ordered documents at the Ayr Registrar’s Office, and we visited two of the cottages that I wanted to see.  One is a bit closer to the roadway and not as close to town.  But inside it’s quite beautiful and does have a gated garden.  We weren’t able to get inside the other place, but it’s in a very quiet area, has a patio/garden adjacent to the cottage and a separate area with playground for kids.  Both have off street parking.  Will be a tough decision.

Today I bit the bullet and drove to Glasgow.  I am getting the hang of left-side driving, but it’s still nerve wracking.  We parked at Buchanan Galleries, a huge modern shopping mall to which my Google Maps could direct us pretty easily.  For about three hours we walked the pedestrian malls looking for Flossy’s, a Spanish shoe that Connie had seen yesterday.  We were sitting at the bus stop outside the Ayr Town Hall waiting for lunch hour closing to finish.  A young woman with an adorable child was waiting for the bus wearing some these cute shoes, which Connie complimented.  They were Flossy’s, which the woman said could be bought “in any sports’ shoe store.”  Hah!  We actually did finally find them in a couple of shoe stores in Glasgow, figured out Connie’s UK size (as opposed to her European or American size, all three are different) and did some try ons.  But alas, because they only come in whole sizes, they didn’t fit.  I tried too with similar luck.  And I couldn’t find any Tom’s that I especially liked that fit either. (I bought my first - pink - pair in Glasgow last summer.)
Connie shoots a piper in Glasgow

Back in Ayr, I stopped to pick up my mother’s birth certificate and grandparents’ marriage license that I’d ordered yesterday.  Now we’re playing on our electronic equipment (my laptop, Connie’s iPad) before heading out to dinner at The Tree House.  Tomorrow on to Edinburgh Castle!
6 June, Glasgow Airport, Scotland
What a day we had yesterday.  We checked out of the B&B with final good byes and “do widzenia’s” to Magdalena. She was a delightful hostess.  I’m going to keep that place in mind in case I get more guests than I can handle next year.  Anyway, I drove cross country to Edinburgh Castle with Connie navigating, using the GPS in my iPhone.  She’s much better than she gives herself credit for.  Plus I would never have driven without her ... much too stressful.  Amazingly I found a parking place on the street right at the side of the castle, the same long hill that Tomery, Tooz, Annie and I had walked up last year.  Unfortunately the meter would only take enough coins for 70 minutes.  But since I had bought the tickets on line, we had no waiting to get into the castle.  We restocked the meter, got 90 minutes that time, then went shopping along the Royal Mile and ate lunch in a pub.  Slowest service on earth and we had to order at the bar.  But Connie said her hamburger was good and so was my salad.  We bought assorted souvenirs for family and friends.  The iPhone got us back on the road to Glasgow, though I had no idea how we were going.  We got almost there when the phone battery died.  I was despairing that I’d never find the hotel -- we had quite the time finding it last year -- when there it was, on the right side of the highway.  I quickly exited at the next turn off and somehow figured out the round abouts and turns and there we were.  Quite a relief.  After settling in and resting for a bit, we decided to return the rental car, then cab back and have dinner at a new restaurant next to the hotel.  I made a wrong turn and we almost ended up in the Clyde Tunnel (sound familiar, Annie?).  Rental return went smoothly, but our cab driver was crabby because he didn’t want our fare.  We were a local fare, which would mean he could buck the line on return to the airport,  a perk that he didn’t want to leave unused, but he really wanted to go home (it was almost 8 pm).  So did we!

Later, Warsaw Airport, Poland
Mass confusion as I tried to figure out where I was supposed to meet the taxi I’d ordered.  My bad Polish, the dispatcher’s less-than-perfect English and a lot of construction at the airport didn’t help.  Finally called Marta who contacted the cab company, and we agreed I’d wait in front of the Marriott Courtyard, which is right across the street from the main terminal.

8 June, Kraków
Enjoyed last evening with Marta, Łukasz, the cats and dog, then got up early to catch a train to Kraków.  I’m staying in a hotel around the corner from David and Inga’s flat, so I know the area well -- and it’s right on the river, although my window overlooks the back of some neighboring buildings.  And for some reason I got a room that well equipped for someone in a wheelchair.  Ah, well, I haven’t spent too much time here.

Unpacked and hung up a few things, then went up to the Główny Rynek (main square) for a “kebob” (gyros sandwich) at my favorite cafe for those and a bit of shopping.  Got a French press coffee pot for about $3 in EMPiK, a big book store; no International Herald Tribune though.  Met Ula for dinner at an outdoor cafe on the square, then a small ice cream cone (coconut, of course) and some walking while we planned today.  In my room I watched a French movie, “All Together,” in English.  It starred Jane Fonda and Geraldine Chaplin, among others.  It’s about five aging friends (in their 70s) who decide to live together. 

Now I’m trying to stay awake to finish this.  Ula picked me up and we visited the new Kraków Under Occupation Museum that has been set up in the old Schindler factory on Lipowa Street and a new gallery featuring art about Galicia (the southern Poland and southeastern Ukraine territory that was part of Austro-Hungary in the 19th Century).  both are in Podgórze section of the city where the actual walled ghetto was built.  It’s across the river from Kazimierz, which is an area also inhabited by many Jews before the war.  The occupation museum chronicles Jewish life in Poland before the war as well as the formation of the walled ghetto and extermination camps by the Nazis.  I hope my photos can do it justice.  The art gallery has a photo exhibit of Jewish life in Galicia.  Both museums are excellent additions to Kraków’s cultural offerings.  

 That's me outside the entrance to the old Schindler factory at Lipowa 4 in Kraków.  It's now an excellent museum to the Occupation of the city during World War II and to pre-war Jewish history.  Below is Schindler's desk, part of an exhibit of his old office in the factory.

Ula and I visited the park that was made in the location of the old quarry.  If you saw the film Schindler's List, we're in the area where the overseer sits on his horse above the quarry.

Afterwards, we walked across the foot bridge to Kazimierz, stopping at the open market to look at what was on sale (from cheap jewelry to not-so-cheap menorahs), then going on to Szeroka Street for a coffee break.  Tonight we went to a nearby outdoor “grill” and had kiełbasa and a mix of salads for dinner, then (again) ice cream.  (I know, Tomery, I have exceeded my ‘cheating’ days!).

10 June, Warsaw
Rain.  Will it ever stop raining ... here ... anywhere?  Dorota D., Jacek and Franek returned from the lakes region last night and had to take a bunch of detours because the rain had closed two bridges and the Wisłastrada riverside roadway due to flooding!  

And today it started raining again.  I had forgotten that I promised the son of a colleague from the Center that I’d meet his cousin’s girlfriend and her friend who are traveling in Europe this summer.  He called me at 8 and by 10:30 I was at his apartment meeting Ashley and Anna, seniors majoring in math at the University of South Carolina.  That apartment is around the corner from Marta’s so was easy to find.  They’ve been using Eurail passes throughout Europe but took an overnight bus from Berlin to Warsaw, arriving around 6 am.  We took a tram and bus to the Old Town and had coffee before I had to leave for lunch with Gina, her only day to get together. We caught up at the end of the afternoon when I took Ashley and Anna to IKO, Dorota and Małgosia’s language school, then directed them to the Wedel shop for chocolate as thick and dark as North Sea oil while I went to a cooking class with some IKO students.  We learned how to make (and got to try) chłodnik, a cold summer soup that can only be made when the beets are new and young.  Delicious.  Perhaps I’ll insert the recipe.

11 June
Who’d a thunk it?  Polish museums are closed on Tuesdays!  Or at least the two that we tried to visit today -- a new national museum to the Warsaw Uprising and a new Jewish museum commemorating the ghetto uprising.  Did a lot of kilometers on the bus and on foot getting to/from both, both closed.  We finally went to the Belvedere Restaurant in Łazienki Park for coffee and dessert.  Saw one of the peacocks that inhabit the park outside the restaurant and a couple of others at Łazienki Palace.  As we approached the palace, I could see that the side was covered with sheeting printed like the side of the palace.  At least the front was visible.  We joined the throngs of school kids and tourists, took some photos but decided not to take the tour.  Instead we trudged up the hill to Belvedere, the palace that was the Polish White House when I moved here and is on the Belvedere Vodka bottles, then on to a tram and homeward.  After leaving them at their apartment, I went to Marta’s to use the Internet and walk Arya.  I just called a cab to take me to Dorota’s where I’m staying.  I am too pooped to schlepp to the bus etc.

13 June
After-dinner conversations with Dorota and Jacek are always interesting, stimulating and eclectic.  We covered economics, politics and society in US and Poland plus a bit on Europe ... we covered family stories which segued into laundry.  Dorota offered to wash my dirty clothes when she did a few loads of theirs.  Since I have a pile of whites and could use some clean undies, I was delighted.  But women here still often wash with hot water, something I haven’t done in decades.  And I have a brand new pair of white trousers in a smaller size than last year that I would like to still fit into after laundering.  So I asked Dorota if she uses hot water to wash.  She noted that the whites cycle called for 40C, which seemed hot to me.  And that led to her saying that her dad insisted that you have to wash bed linens, sleeping clothes and towels in boiling water at least once a year to kill the germs.  Funny that a Polish male of his generation should be the laundry guru.  They’re aren’t known for their participation in household chores.

PS  Laundry done.  Trousers dry and ironed but still need to be tried on.

Franiu and his medals


18 June
Lots has happened since I last wrote though nothing earth shattering.  Like Kraków, Warsaw is overrun by school children of all sizes and ages on their field trips.  It’s kind of fun to see the littlest one decked out in those reflective vests that crossing guards usually wear.  Not a bad way to keep track and to ensure they are visible as they chatter and plow through the busy streets.

We continue to get our share of rain and perhaps the share of several other countries.  I spent the weekend in Milanówek with Maryla and her family. Tomek, her son, and I met at a commuter train station just east of the city center and road out together.  As a result, we actually got seats, something the hoards who boarded at the Śródmieście (center city) station did not.  The weekend was very relaxing, especially sitting in the back garden. I even fell asleep in my lounge chair on Saturday afternoon and dozed for an hour.  Sunday I took a long walk with Tomek searching for an Internet cafe.  No such luck.  The one that we saw is only open Monday through Friday only.  We did find numerous bakeries, places to buy ice cream, lots of signs for dentist offices and even a kebab place with Arabic and Polish signage.  Although some streets in the town are still dirt, as so many more were in 1991 when my Peace Corps colleagues lived there, most are paved and have sidewalks that don’t require eternal vigilance to ensure you don’t trip over the many broken segments.  Also spent some time on Sunday helping Maryla sign up for LinkedIn, something strongly requested by her employer which provided detailed guidance.  Hardest part was using a PC again!

I’ve been wanting to take Dorota and family out to dinner as a small ‘thank you’ for their hospitality.  Last night we finally got organized and went to Samira, a Lebanese place that they love ... and I do too now.  All my favorite foods plus some interesting and tasty bread that was a little like focaccia, along with the traditional pita.  Franiu is a great eater for a five-year-old.  He ate everything, then drank five glasses of hot sweet tea.  I would never have found the restaurant on my own -- it’s tucked way back behind the national library with only one way to enter the long wooded drive to the restaurant and a tire repair workshop next door.  The restaurant also has a deli with Middle Eastern specialities, including a nice selection of fresh olives.  Dorota bought some to take home, and I got four small pieces of baklava.

Got word last week that David and family will arrive in Kraków from DC on Thursday. I organized a hotel room for myself so I can meet them at the airport, and after talking to Inga via email, arranged a rental car.  I’ll meet up with Inga’s friend Danusia, whom I’ve met during the garage protest a few years ago, and we’ll go to the airport together to greet the Reenes.

19 June, Kraków
The day has been hot as hell.  Dorota dropped me to the train station, then I walked across to the Marriott to use the free wi-fi in the Lobby Bar. Wanted to check email; I am definitely an Internet addict!  I took the 10:50 am express train to Kraków and thankfully the two men with whom I shared a compartment left the window and door open -- good cross breezes helped the heat during the journey.  I had thought I’d take a cab to Hotel Pod Wawelem, at least a 20 minute walk on a less hot day, then decided that I needed the exercise so walked anyway and sweated profusely.  After changing and getting some lunch, I walked back to the bus station to check on buses from Limanowa (the nearest town of any size to David and Inga’s działka) to Kraków and connections from there to Sandomierz.  If at all possible, I need to go to Hala’s before I return to the US.  And I stopped at the American Bookstore in the Galleria to buy a couple of dead trees, just in case I can’t re-charge my Kindle at some point.  I’ve enjoyed Phillipa Gregory’s historical novels about England and found one that I haven’t read yet.  

20 June
David & Inga in Kraków
“The Eagle has landed,” as I wrote to David’s Army today.  I went to the airport with their friends Danusia and Krzysztof, and we were joined by Franciszka’s friend Aga.  The Reenes arrive weary but happy to be in Poland. Arrangements at the rental car place went pretty smoothly, and everything fit in the trunk.  Danusia had found David and Inga a studio apartment in the “home” building, so while Inga got everything settled and organized, David took a nap, and the rest of us went to the cafe on the river plaza.  Several other Kraków friends plus Robert from Warsaw/Kielce joined us, as did David and Inga eventually.  We sat for several hours happily catching up.  It felt so good.
Now Tosia is off with her friend Adriana and will join us at the działka on Saturday.  Frankie will come to the działka after a trip to Portugal with Aga and her family.  Both girls are going to join old friends at school on the last day of the school year tomorrow. 

21 June, Willa Reene on the mountainside high above the village of Łacko 
... and not far from Nowy Sacz where I lived as a Peace Corps volunteer.

Villa Reene

On a clear day you can see Slovakia
After a morning and early afternoon of dental appointments and grocery shopping, David, Inga and I drove the couple of hours south and east to their działka.  Inga found this perfect piece of land several years ago and fell in love with it on sight. I remember, kept comparing other places to this one.  Land is not easily bought in this region, but eventually they were able to. We stopped briefly to greet the nearest neighbors, then up the stone drive to the cottage where we were greeted by a big welcome sign made by Anka, one of the neighbors.
The small two-story wooden cottage was built from scratch with an awesome view of mountains and valleys and forests for miles and miles. I can understand Inga’s commitment to this place, David’s desire to be here. Inside, the walls of unstained interior paneling along with big windows make for a bright and cheery main floor: a small L-shaped kitchen, bathroom and salon.  Upstairs are two bedrooms.  Metal roll-down exterior shades protect the place from weather and prying eyes when they aren’t here.  A big wide deck surrounds the front and one side of the cottage where one segment has a canvas roof.  With Danusia and Krzysztof’s help, hot running water, unlimited electricity and a new shower awaited.  Inga is ecstatic over the running water as carrying water was not her favorite chore, and the shower is pure joy.

Inga has designed the cottage much like a travel trailer; space is utilized to the max. It’s well stocked with everything needed, including her bread cutter.  David made much of the furniture, including the beautiful wooden picnic table and benches where we’ll eat on the deck and the day bed/sofa in the living room where I’ll sleep.

Tonight Inga went to the house where Anka and her children live with her husband’s family (he is working full time in Germany).  She took ‘thank you’ gifts from the US and brought back assorted packages that had been shipped or left there -- from four cases of wine, two blow-up mattresses, a tent and small pool for the kids to a portable air conditioner that Inga installed upstairs.  We finish the evening unpacking and stowing and enjoying a glass of white wine while thunder rolls around the darkening skies but no rain falls.  David had extolled this sauvignon blanc and I agree: it’s delightful even thought it’s not cold.  As my sister taught me, I took a picture of the label so I can look for it back home. Inga takes a before-bed shower and steps from the bathroom with wet hair and a huge grim on her face.  I think taking a hot shower has been the best part of her day.  Now she truly believes she won’t have to schlepp water anymore.

23 June
This morning I awoke to a short thunder storm, complete with downpour but I didn’t see any lightning.  We had a little rain yesterday afternoon and the rumbling was louder and nearer than before but not storm.  David and I had talked about how much we both love a good thunder-and-lightning storm.

We had a lot of excitement yesterday.  The freezing compartment of the hand-me-down refrigerator wasn’t working.  So when Inga went shopping, she returned with many full  bags from the grocery, a new refrigerator and two men to do the heavy lifting.  David and I emptied the old one while Inga’s caravan drove up the winding road to the cottage.  Now the old one is on the side deck and stocked with beverages.  The new one runs smoothly top and bottom.  I was flabbergasted at the price, PLN 1299 (about $400).  If I’d had to replace my refrigerator, I’d’ve had to pay $1299 for one only slightly bigger.  Anyway ...

While we waited four hours for the new refrigerator to settle and be plugged in, we returned all of the perishables to old one, stowed groceries and as advertised, in two seconds Inga had the tent up.  A three-person tent was among her purchases.  She staked it to the side deck and was going to foot-pump an air mattress but had trouble with the connection.  That task was completed later by her friend Dorota-from-Kielce’s son Błaźej, who would use the mattress in the tent.  By the time Dorota, Błaźej and Tosia arrived, we were relaxing with visiting neighbors at the big picnic table outside.  More neighbors arrived later and we enjoyed kiełbasa and burgers from the grill along with our beer, wine, juice until after 11.  Nice way to end the day.

David just left for his morning walk, something he really enjoys.  The only change I’ve noticed is his speech -- he has more difficulty finding the right word, Polish or English, than I recall. Otherwise he seems much the same as when I saw him in May.  He does have a bigger appetite, a side effect of his current meds, so eats a little often.



Later
After lunch, Tosia went to the neighbors where there are children to play with and a trampoline to jump on.  More recently, Anka walked up with her two children, Adrian, 3, and Zusia,1.  She asked if my name was Zuzanna, as Dorota did yesterday.  So I explained in basic Polish my nickname and legal given name.  I’m getting better at that.

The sun came out, so Dorota, David, Anka and I drank wine and beer at the picnic table and visited while Inga supervised Błaźej cutting weeds and grass in the front yard.  It’s way too steep for any kind of lawn mower so a super-sized weed eater does the job nicely ... as did Błaźej.  Soon we’ll fix something for dinner (we went into Łacko for pizza for a late lunch) -- Inga bought parówki (hot dogs) to go with the rolls Dorota brought yesterday ... but better yet, we could eat left overs.  We have a few burgers from last night, pizza from lunch, David’s kotlet schabowy i kapusta (pork cutlet and saurerkraut) rom Friday lunch ... lots to choose from.  And we’ve been chilling new bottles of wine.

24 June
Dorota, Błaźej, Tosia and I drove to Zakopane with the help of Dorota’s GPS, a somber male voice that quickly became grating.  Zakopane in the Tatra Mountains has  changed a lot since my last visit in the mid ‘90s.  It’s like Aspen in a lot of ways -- a real town with real residents plus lots of winter sports, tourists and expensive homes and flats ... and over-developing quickly.  Rain limited with we could do, but we were able to do some shopping for Inga’s birthday on Saturday and in my case, also buy a few gifts to take home.  A good day despite the weather.

25 June
Last night we had a doozy of a thunder storm, one a native Western Pennsylvanian could be proud of -- continuous rolling claps of thunder, wide swaths of lightning, deluges of rain.  Typically, I fell asleep before it ended.  I awoke to bright blue skies dotted with a few fluffy white clouds, a rising temperature and the promise of a beautiful day in the mountains.  Not.  It’s about 6 pm and since early afternoon, the temps have steadily dropped, a cold breeze has moved in and the sky has clouded over.  

Inga, Tosia, Błaźej and I went into Łacko for some shopping, and I not only found a post office to mail the postcards I bought yesterday in Zakopane but also an Internet “cafe.”  No coffee nor much else but a helpful young man who spoke English and set the wi-fi code for me.  He has a computer repair and service shop that also has three desktops and wi-fi for customer use.  I downloaded about 200 messages, half selling me something and easy to delete.  Got off a quick message to family and friends, forwarded bank statement and utility bill notices to my sister, then asked what I owed for my wi-fi use.  Two złoty (less than $1); I gave him 10, thanked him over his protest of my “over-payment.”

Although I called Hala to arrange my return tomorrow to Sandomiez (via car to Limanowa and buses to Kraków and Sandomierz), that plan may change.  Inga is concerned that when David awoke early this morning, he was exhibiting some of the same symptoms as he had before the last seizure.  We’re in a wait-and-see mode; he’s taken his meds and seems okay.  But I have alerted Hala that I may not get to Sandomierz.

26 June
David seems fine.  He continues to walk up the hillside every morning for an hour or two, taking sandwiches along so stave off the medication-induced hunger.  Some old gents who live further up often walk along.  He’s mostly speaking Polish.  Not sure if that’s a function of being here or if his brain works better in Polish than English.  He’s always spoken Polish first when he’s had seizures, much to the doctors’ surprise.  As in DC, Inga has made it possible for David not to have to walk steps too much, even thought thebedrooms are upstairs.  She got a portable toilet for their room and nightly takes up fresh water, various snacks, coffee fixings.  David commented that since that one room had everything necessary, perhaps the cottage had been over-built.

Anka came up for a visit this afternoon while Inga, Tosia and I were tearing apart all of the boxes that we’d accumulated and putting the pieces in the old rain collection tanks for use in bonfires.  Before this year, the cabin had no water source other than catching rain from the gutters for washing bodies and dishes and schlepping five-liter bottles from the store for drinking and cooking.  Sinking a well and septic tank were among the projects that Danuta and Krzysztof (and I’m sure the neighbors too) oversaw before our arrival.

Inga built a fire in the pit using some of the cardboard and wood and baked potatoes and heated leftover kielbasa and parówki (hotdogs) from yesterday.  We opened some new bottles of wine.  David certainly made some excellent selections -- all whites, either sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio.  While I’ve like some better than others, they have all been quite good.  I’ve used my sister’s method of remembering and taken a few photos with my digital camera.

27 June
I’m wearing a turtleneck, tee-shirt, hoodie and denim jacket, I’m barely warm and it’s the 27th of June.  What’s wrong with this picture?  We’ve continued to have lousy weather, but it hasn’t kept us idle.  Inga reminds me frequently that her projects are her relaxation.  And she has something almost daily. Her energy astounds me. 

This afternoon we went to lunch at a nearby zajazd (inn) that is known for it’s good local fare.  On the way back, I returned to my wi-fi guy (100 messages, mostly deletable without reading) while David got a haircut.  Then we stopped to get a few more concrete blocks at the building supply yard.  We’d picked some up the other day, and Błaźej helped Inga set a base for the kaplica (like a grotto).  It’s where the two new pieces of naive art will go.  

Today Inga’s project was to make more stable steps down from the deck.  The wooden blocks and planks move too easily.  She and Dorota tried to level the ground and lay the blocks. Since I was a third wheel and yawning, a function of the overcast weather, I laid down and half-slept for an hour.  I awoke to the sounds of David in the kitchen and a truck in the yard ... I recalled Inga saying they were going back to the building supply yard for more blocks.  They’d also returned with a truckload of gravel.  I quickly put on my shoes and went to help.  We spread gravel around the driveway, made a path to the recycling and a base for steps from the far-side deck where the grill sits.  Adrian, the three-year-old from the nearest house, joined us and carried empty buckets that Dorota and I refilled and Inga carried across the deck.  Steps were set and leveled on both sides of the deck and the driveway gravel spread just in time for a fine rain to start.  Tosia walked Adi home with a bag of scraps for their dog.  We feasted on leftovers for dinner since we had a refrigerator full from lunches yesterday and today.

Inga has a new beau, Adi
PHOTO

28 June, Warsaw
With only a minute to go before its closing, Dorota D. pulled into the Toyota dealer on Zakopiańska street south of Kraków last night ... and was able to get someone to replace the headlight bulb that had burned out.  See, P-IVs, things are changing in our adopted country.

Dorota drove down this morning so that she could see David, and I rode back with her.  A long trip made longer by all of the traffic for first-day-of-school-holidays and Friday-going-to-the-southern-mountains traffic coupled with occasional rain.  We took a slightly different route through Kraków, around the east side rather than usual west, because we missed a turn. But we easily found the highway to Kielce, Radom, Warsaw.  We finally got to her house about 1 am.  Her husband Jacek was waiting for us.



 We had three Dorotas at the działka -- Dorota D., David’s and my first Polish language teacher., Dorota from Kielce who’d been with us all week, Dorota with Eric who are friends of David and Inga, and .  That’s how I remember and keep them straight.

Działka visitors - Dorota D., David, Eric standing; Dorota from Kielce, Inga in David's górale hat, Eric's wife Dorota - posed for me before Dorota D. and I left for Warsaw.  

On the way back, we had a minute to spare before closing when Dorota pulled into the Toyota dealer just outside Kraków.  One of the headlights was out and needed replacing.  And someone actually was available and made the change for us.  The times they are a'changin' in Poland.  It was 1 am before we arrived.


30 June, Paris, France
I think I’ve been away too long.  I’m not paying good attention.  When I knew that I wouldn’t go back to Sandomierz, I’d told Hala that I’d left all my dollars and some clothes that I would just get in December; she said she’d get the wallet and put it in a safe place ... then we talked yesterday and she said found the wallet and three keys ... the keys to my building, condo and post box in Minneapolis.  Thank heavens for Skype Out (banked credit for calling any phone number).  I caught my sister at home and arranged to get her set of my keys.  Took a letter to the Główna Poczta (main post office) at almost 10 pm last night.  (Yes, that PO is open 24 hours a day with real people helping you.)  The letter had some document copies that Inga may need.  I mailed in care of Anka, the neighbor at the działka ... and forgot to put on the post code.  Then today I checked in at Chopin Airport and didn’t look at my luggage receipt ... or I would have noticed the agent booked my suitcase through to Minneapolis although that flight is tomorrow afternoon.  I schlepped around Charles de Gaulle Airport for more than an hour while some of the French baggage handlers had an “industrial action” but I did finally get the bag.  Clean undies for tomorrow!

I’m at the Ibis which is right at the airport, tiny room but comfortable, clean and convenient, the 3 Cs of travel.  I decided not to try to go into Paris by train for dinner even though it’s an easy trip.  Took a walk around the area: a Hilton and a Novotel are within a few minutes on foot.  I wanted to check out what other places had to offer in the way of food.  But I will probably go downstairs and eat Italian.  When I get back to Minneapolis, I’ll be back into a serious detox again ... and get to meet my Godson's new son, Alijah.









Friday, May 31, 2013


... bring May flowers, except in Minnesota where it’s still snowing

1 May 2013, Minneapolis MN USA ... where it’s snowing again
Happy Labor Day to all my friends around the world.  


3 May
Did I fall asleep and wake up six months later?  Perhaps, because while it was raining when I went to the Y this morning, it was snowing when I came out.  Thick wet snow that was sticking to my car, the grass, the streets.  What’s a girl to do?  Well, go shopping, of course!

I called my niece Michelle who happily spent a few hours with me at Rosedale Mall, mostly at Herberger’s, a department store that I enjoy.  When I was living overseas and Michelle was head of HR there, she’d bring clothes to the changing room for me.  She has fabulous taste so I ended up with some great outfits ... and I didn’t have to keep re-dressing to get more stuff to try on.  Oh, and Herberger’s has great sales ... like yesterday’s.  I got four pair of capri-length pants in a new smaller size, two tank tops and a funky tunic top for half their retail price.  Not a bad way to endure a yukky day.

While we were driving, Inga called to say that David will have another surgery next Friday.  Made all of the arrangements to fly out on Tuesday and stay until the 20th.   

4 May
I was awake at 5 am.  Too many things on my mind.  I’d made all the flight arrangements for the trip to DC.  Then, before I went to bed, I was thinking about the side trip to Glasgow that I’ll take while overseas.  My friend Connie is meeting me in the Amsterdam airport, and we’ll fly together from there to Glasgow.  How to get from airport to B&B in Ayr was creating much ado in my head.  If I were alone, I could wing it.  But Connie will have endured the overnight flight from Minneapolis, so I want to be better organized. I finally decided to get up and go on line and see what I could actually do, instead of laying in bed and worrying.  I found that we’ll need a bus to Glasgow, train to Ayr, taxi to B&B ... way too much work at anytime, and we’ll arrive as rush hour starts.  So, I rented a small car.  And I called hotels.com about the B&B reservation.  It’ll be easier to get to the airport from the hotel we stayed in last year than from Ayr.  Cancelled one night in the B&B, confirmed one at the airport hotel.  By the time I left for my water ex class, I was decidedly less stressed.  Action always does that for me.

Water ex was further de-stressing, and I stopped at Janet & Ed’s afterwards.  I had been carrying around a jar of jelly that I bought Ed last month on the Eastern Shore because it contains three of his favorite things jalapeña, garlic and lime.  They’d gone to Mankato in the snow so Ed could take part in a deposition (he’s a forensic economist and often gives expert testimony).  Janet explored this “hidden vacation mecca” and found this web site that you have to check out.  Read it all carefully ... it’s a hoot.

city-mankato.us/


Spent the afternoon browsing boutiques in the warehouse district, visiting artists’ studios in an old Northrup King seed warehouse-turned-artist incubator with my friend Marilyn.  We ran in to Nick and Rosie, who Northeast Minneapolis mainstays who were on the board of the local development organization I worked for post Poland.  They have a recognized collection of local artists and were featured in the Strib not long ago.  Nice to see them.  I also found a painting that I may want for my living room; I have an “empty” wall, horrors!  Marilyn and I did a late lunch-early dinner at a Mexican restaurant south of downtown, in the old Sears store-turned-Midtown World Market.  She graciously did the driving, so I indulged in a sangria with my fish tacos.  All in all, a wonderful way to relax.

Cinco de Mayo
CBS Sunday Morning had an interesting piece of the US-Mexican War and the origins of the Mexican Fifth of May celebration.  And Andrew did deep water zumba in honor of Cinco de Mayo today.  Don’t know that I ever was in step, but I worked hard and had fun.  Then I took my niece Michelle to the airport.

I love my neighborhood.  Took my sliding glass door screen to the nearby hardware store for repair last week.  Walked it over on a gloomy, windy day.  Since the hardware store is open today and re-screening is done, I walked over on this sunny, slightly warm day to retrieve it.  Three people offered to help as I walked it home, but ridiculously independent woman that I am, I declined and managed to get it home, up three floors and into place. Phew.

Tonight my sister Barbara, nephew Christopher and his girlfriend Jennifer are coming over for a “clean out the ‘frig’ and freezer” dinner.  I need to use up and/or give away as much food as I can, just in case the refrigerator dies while I’m in DC or Poland.  I think I mentioned that the LCD display is blank though all’s working well so far.

6 May
Getting organized for the DC trip and a bit too for Poland since I’ll only have about 24 hours here.  Sorting clothes, finishing laundry, taking out recycling and trash, changing bed linens.  As I was changing the duvet cover, it dawned on me how many practical household things I’ve learned from the men in my life.  I turn my duvet covers inside out, put my arms inside to the far corners, grab the duvet, then pull it into the cover.  Voilá.  A properly covered duvet without a struggle.  I learned this from my friend Larry when we were in Peace Corps, and it still comes in handy.  Oh, and Tom, another Peace Corps friend (the one I took to Union Rooftop for his birthday) taught me how to dry freshly washed plastic baggies.  Oh, I know.  You don’t wash and re-use your baggies.  But as PCVs, we had to “import” these from US-based friends who sent “care” packages.  Tom, being the Felix member of the Odd Couple in Szczecin (friend Bill, now in Indio, was Oscar), perfected clean, dry baggies with insides that are untouched by dirty hands.  Turn the baggie inside out, wash, rinse then either hang on a clothes line, as Tom did in Poland, or stand on a towel to drip dry.  I still do this.

One last example.   As a teen, I heard Gloria Steinem comment that men who’s shirts refused to stay tucked should talk to their wives about how they keep their blouses tucked (they tuck the tails into their undies).  Yep, that’s what I do ... because my dad taught me that when I was a kid.  I wonder who taught him?

7 May, Bethesda MD
Arrived safely to a gray, rainy day in the DC area.  Inga met me, and as we arrived at the house, a deluge let go.  Antonia’s bus passed us so we scooted down the street to pick her up, then a quick U-turn and home to the garage and a dry entry into the house.   

On the way home David’s oldest brother Jeff called.  Joe, the nurse who managed the original clinical trial that was considered for David, has suggested another trial that David qualifies for.  (Joe also named us “David’s Army.”) It’s a one-dose drug (5-ALA) that is approved in Europe but not by our FDA, thus it’s in trial.  It causes cancer cells to become luminous, making it easier for surgeons and oncologists to see what’s cancer, what healthy tissue and what’s scar tissue.  David has agreed to this trial and will take the dose.  Tomorrow we’ll know exactly when the surgery is to be on Friday.  

David’s vision has worsened significantly, and since the house has many half flights of steps, Inga’s rearranged “bedrooms” so David doesn’t have to walk as many staircases. David and Inga are sleeping in his office, which has an en suite powder room and French doors to the back patio and garden.  I’m back in my original spot, Inga’s office.  Kim will sleep in “my” bed in the big room downstairs since David is using the bed that had been in “his” room.

Karen’s childhood friend Carol just called.  I was about to try calling her as I was afraid she’d lost my number or something.  It’s close to 9 pm.  Karen’s surgery took 11 hours, but everything went well.  Most of it was done by laparoscopy (through a small abdominal incision), minimizing the scarring and making recovery easier.  She’ll be in ICU tonight, sitting up by tomorrow afternoon.

8 May
At 2:20 am 14 years ago today the “worst thing in the world” happened.  That’s how my son’s best friend, Thom, told me Peter had died.  Thom and our friend Dan were with him at the time; Peter and I had been living at our friend Dan’s house for two weeks.  Peter had sent me home with my brother and his wife who had arrived from California late in the afternoon before, as had my best friend Jean.  As always, Peter did things his way in his own time.  Since I was surrounded by those from here and afar that I needed for support, he could let go.  And Dan told me that’s just what he did.

Today, if I had been in Minneapolis, I would have said kaddish, the Jewish mourners’ prayer, at Temple Israel with my friend Susan.  Because I’m in DC, I had hoped to find a synagogue here to do that. It’s a tradition that I gives me comfort.  To that end, I emailed Karen, wife of Peace Corps friend Larry and mother of two of my adopted grandsons Jonah and Spike, to get recommendations of a local synagogue; they lived in DC before moving to Boston. She provided a long list of info, and I had one selected. Unfortunately, things got hectic here just when I’d planned to leave -- a thunder storm, an Internet that wouldn’t work and Tomek coming to fix dinner.  However, after we finished dinner, Inga suggested a few moments of silent prayer for Peter, an unexpected gesture that I much appreciated.  I also loved the huge bouquet of pink and white roses that she and David brought me “from Peter” in the afternoon.

My friend Dianna, whom I met when we were leading USAID projects in Macedonia, has been working with the Departments of State and Defense in Fragile States and Nations in Transition on conflict mitigation, civil-military issues, peace keeping, inter-religious and inter-ethnic relations and more.  She recently joined the board of an organization that might interest some of you, so I am passing along the link to the International Center for Ethno-Religious Mediation.  Check it out.


10 May
After getting the girls off to school and walking Beza, I drove to the east side of Baltimore where David had surgery this morning.  Johns Hopkins-Bayview Hospital is across the bay, so I had to take a tunnel in both directions.  Felt a lot like being back in Pittsburgh -- long curving tunnel with white subway-tile walls that could use a wash but aren’t too post-winter dirty and more importantly, vehicles that stayed in their own lanes.  No passing or driving too fast as is the case in the very short, curved Lowry Tunnel in Minneapolis; these drivers understand what happens when there’s an accident in a tunnel and the bypass is a long way ‘round.

Before the surgery, David received a new experimental chemo that helped the surgeons by causing cancer areas to become luminescent.  As a result, the surgeons were able to excise more than they could without the chemical guidance.  David’s surgery went well although the prognosis is not what we wanted to hear.  His brother Jeff talked with the lead surgeon: It’ll be a week or two before the final biopsy results are ready, but the cancer has spread to other, inoperable parts of David’s brain. I was able to spend a couple of minutes with him before I returned to Bethesda.  For all he’s been through, David looked and sounded pretty good.  His voice was a surprise -- deeper and very gravelly, definitely not the voice I’m used to hearing.  Might just be the anesthesia.

I booked Inga a hotel room near the hospital.  She’ll stay there for a couple of days until we know when David will be able to come home.

11 May
Talked to Karen’s friend Carol.  Karen was having some breathing problems -- all those years of smoking have taken a toll.  So she is still in the ICU.  Otherwise she seems to be doing okay.  And according to Inga, David is also doing well.  She said he seems more like his old self every time she sees him.  Hurray.  Returning to the hospital from the hotel this morning, Inga made a wrong turn and ended up going the wrong way and into the tunnel.  Quite the ordeal to find a turn around at the other end, then back through the tunnel etc.  We had a good laugh.

Tosia and Frankie each went to a friend’s house for the night last night.  Kim arrived around 11:30 pm, and we sat up until 1:30 and talked.  We went to a funky little diner in Bethesda for breakfast this morning, then organized using the car today.  Frankie and I finally went shopping for Mother’s Day at about 6:30 tonight.  

Big event of the day was chasing Beza.  I was on the phone with Carol and had my back to the deck door which I’d left open ... and she sneaked out without my knowing.  Probably made a bee-line to one of her holes under the fence, even though I thought we’d covered them all. Christi from across the street heard me shouting for her and helped in the search.  Thankfully this is a friendly neighborhood with lots of dogs, so everyone was helpful and understanding as we knocked on doors.  Beza was apparently jumping a fence between the neighbors’ yard the the one behind them.  We finally found her up next door. 

12 May, Mother’s Day in the US
Inga came home today, and we celebrated Mother’s Day by giving her a few gifts.  I bought her perfume from David, which he’ll give her when he gets home ... and that may be tomorrow.  Hurray.  Inga says he looks and feels better each day.

13 May
David looking pretty good post surgery
Inga brought David home today, double hurray.  And while everyone was piled on the sofa around him, talking and snacking and watching TV and playing with an iPad, David said very quietly, “It’s great to be home.”  I don’t know that anyone but me heard him, but I recognized how heartfelt that sentence was.  Being at home with Inga, the girls, Beza is probably the best medicine David can have.  

David looks good, so much better than when I saw him in the ICU but even better than I had envisioned.  His eyesight is worse than pre-surgery, more limited peripheral vision, so we cleaned up all extraneous stuff off the floors.  He’s moving slowly and scanning from side to side to ensure he doesn’t fall.  Inga instructed everyone to remind him to scan.

18 May
I’ve been remiss again at keeping up to date.  But we’ve been busy.  David, Inga and I had an interesting “cultural” conversation out on the deck the other evening.  It kind of started because Inga got a Mother’s Day card from her former sister-in-law, something totally uncommon in Poland.  Also a nephew has just been graduated from college, and she wondered if they were expected to send a gift ... something they hadn’t done when others had graduated.  Again, not commonplace in Poland.

At 4:30 am yesterday the loud ding-ding-ding-ding-ding of the doorbell awoke Inga, Antonia and me.  Inga got to the door first, but I heard someone say the garage doors (car and ‘people’) were open, and there had been burglaries in the neighborhood.  (Later learned it was a Bethesda policeman patrolling the area.)  I headed to the basement -- no one hiding and nothing appeared remiss, pushed the garage door opener and locked the inner door.  We all went back to bed although I didn’t fall asleep.

I was wide awake when my alarm when off, but for the first time this school year, Franciszka slept in.  Ironically I had slept in, for the first time in all my visits here, on Thursday, and Frankie got herself off to school as she does when I’m not here.  Anyway, after finishing my lemon water, I looked at the clock and saw it was 6:20, the time when she usually grabs her lunch, backpack and coffee, puts on her shoes and dashes out the door.  No light under her door when I went upstairs to check, so I knocked, then stuck my head in to find a sound-asleep teenager whom I woke.  About 20 minutes later she came down, finished her morning tasks and I drove her to school. 

We’ve had intermittent rain today, and despite that forecast, Frankie went off to her country-western concert in shorts, a light sleeveless top and a long-sleeved shirt-jacket.  Oh, and a straw cowboy hat.  She looked terrific ... but as David just noted, she is probably shivering right now.  Ah, well, teenaged girls.  No amount of concerned discussion or rational suggestions convinced her to be better prepared.  But she’s with her friends and I’m sure she’s having a good time.  She was definitely looking forward to this.

In other news, I called Karen the other night, and she had just arrived in her hospital room (out of ICU) that afternoon.  She was, and sounded, tired but otherwise seemed okay.  Once she’s healed, she’ll have to start chemo again.  Not sure how long she’ll be in the hospital.

Marilyn from Minneapolis emailed today, then I called her.  She’s taking her granddaughter to Art-a-Whirl, the annual art crawl in Northeast Minneapolis.  This event has grown and grown over the years, and I’ve lost touch with this fun event.  My sister used to go but said in the last few years, it’s rained heavily ... which it’s doing today, Marilyn said.  Since the artists will show their works in their studios, I don’t think the weather dampens attendance too badly ... though I’m sure the shops that do “sidewalk” sales at this time may suffer.

David just said that his legs are almost 100 percent back.  He has said that he is slowly getting full “awareness” of his body parts.

Happy birthday to my youngest nephew, Christopher (center below), dwarfing his older sister, Tomery (left) and girlfriend Jennifer (right).











Inga & her Bugzooka, ready for action








20 May
Drove each of the girls to school today, then went to meet my friend David for breakfast.  I think I’m getting the hang of the traffic circles.  I’m so ready for driving again in Scotland!

Later, Reagan Airport, Washington, DC
Overheard while waiting to get a bottle of cold water, “Well, if she has anything to do with him, she’ll go to jail too.”  TMI!

Still Later, my condo, Minneapolis MN
Feels good to be home, albeit a quick trip.  

Despite my email that confused whether I’d arrive today or tomorrow, Janet answered when I called from the plane and picked me up less than 30 minutes later.  The thermostat said 83 so I put on the a/c to cool things off, started laundry, sorted mail (mostly junk), finished packing and went to dinner with my nephew Christopher.  I have been craving a burger from Cuzzie’s, a neighborhood bar/cafe that has fantastic hamburgers, fries and onion rings.  I indulged.  Now an hour or so to veg with “MI-5” on the telly, then off to bed.  I’ve decided to go to water ex in the morning.  I know I’ll be awake and the exercise will feel good before the long flights.

21 May, Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport ...
... where I will sit and walk for a couple of hours since we have to be here so early for international flights.  First use of my new passport, and it feels weird to have such a pristine, thin one.  I miss the old, fat, well-worn one I got while in Uganda.  But alas, it expired.  My Godson Craig drove me here.  I was hoping that if he made that commitment, his and April’s son would decided to be born this morning.  I know how badly she’d like to get this over with; she’s been on bed rest for a long time.  But that little kiddo is determined to do this in his own time.  Must be a Hagen!

Heard on the news this morning that Prague is establishing separate train cars for singles to assist them to meet their “soul mates.”  Now there’s an interesting government program.  Might have to immigrate to Czech Republic!

Water ex was the most energetic it’s been in ages, and that’s saying something.  Lindsay always has a high energy class, but she’s back from an international Y training conference with lots of new ideas.  She tested one learned from the Italians ... and it tested us, mind and body.  She had 80 trainers take part in her water tabata class and 50 in the land version.  Forgot to ask her what size the swimming pool was.  We get crowded at a dozen in ours.

22 May, Sandomierz, Poland
Feels good to be home!  Yes, I know I wrote that a couple or three days ago about my condo in Minneapolis.  But as I’m sure I’ve written before, returning to Poland also always feels like home.  Especially returning to Sandomierz.

And since it started to pour rain just as my board-colleague Steve and I got into the car at Warsaw airport to drive here, it really felt like home.  We had quite a lovely thunder-and-lightning storm just as I was going to bed the one night I spent in Minneapolis ... and it rained off and on for several of my last days in DC.  The farmers should be happy, right?

23 May
Sandomierz is overrun by student-tourists today.  As in the US, it’s wycieczka season, the time when teachers run out of energy to contain their classes indoors and take them on field trips.  Because of its historical significance, Sandomierz is one of those places that virtually all Polish student visits at some point in their schooling.

This morning I made my semi-annual trip to the “salon kosmeticzny Nefertete” to have a mani/pedi and my eyebrows and mustache waxed.  The owner received a micro loan and support from the Center to start up this, her first, business.  That’s one reason I decided to give her a try several years ago.  Because she does a nice job and the price is incredible (80 PLN today ... less than $30!!!), I return twice a year.  I’m always pleased to see that micro enterprises not only continue in business but also develop.  She now has an assistant, something new since my December visit.  The assistance massaged moisturizer into my hands during my pedicure, just as relaxing as the back-massaging pedicure chairs I’ve experienced in the US ... and far more cost effective for the owner as she continues to build her business.

24 May
Long day.  We were supposed to take a “retro tour” in an old touring vehicle to various old sites, then end at a winery owned and operated by the son of a former Center employee.  Despite the rainy weather, in the morning the tour guide confirmed he could manage the non-paved roadways we’d visit ... then in the afternoon cancelled because he’d blown out his engine at the end of his morning tour.  We all crammed into a couple of Center cars and headed directly to the winery, of course.

Steve, Jadwiga and Marcel before the winery tour
Jadwiga had told me previously that her son Marcel was going to grow grapes and start a winery.  But since I moved away from Poland, we usually have lunch or coffee in Sandomierz or once we met at her daughter’s place.  So I literally have not seen Marcel, her son, since his First Holy Communion year.  Needless to say, he’s all grown up ... he looks a lot like that little boy though, same gorgeous smile and straightforward approach.  He showed us the vineyard, where he grows six varieties of grapes, and told us about the handful of other wineries and grape growers in the area.  Then we went to the tasting room -- a cellar in the hillside below the vineyard.  It was constructed even before his grandparents owned the property. Because we worked with the Macedonian winery owners on their presentations, I know a little about such things.  And I can say that Marcel did a lovely job.  His presentation about his wines was without hesitation or sounding boastful.  The white we tasted was young and not as sweet as I expected when he described it as semi-sweet.  The red was too young and lacked a good finish but seemed to have some potential.  I’ll have a chance to see him and Jadwiga while I’m here, and I’ll send on comments from our group.  

25 May
My Godson’s son arrived at last!  Alijah Peter Hagen finally decided to come into the world on his own late yesterday afternoon/early evening.  I’m sure his mom, April, was glad to have it over.  She had been on bed rest for some time and had some false labor earlier.  I know Craig is happy and proud.  And I can’t wait to meet the little fellow.
Welcome, Alijah Peter Hagen

26 May, Hala’s farm in Czermin village near Sandomierz
Woke up very early to the smell of coffee brewing. Michał is always the first up.  But it’s Sunday so I didn’t get up.  I could hear the broadcast church service that Hala and Michał “attend” with her parents at 7, finally got up at 8 and found Michał making his usual delicious fresh garden salad for breakfast, and Hala assembling ingredients for kanapki (open face sandwiches) for her parents. I sat down and buttered bread for her while the coffee re-heated.  I had a lazy day, helped with laundry, read, actually took a nap.  I tried to buy a movie on iTunes and all of a sudden it doesn’t recognize me.  Had to change my password twice, but it still won’t let me buy the film.  Annoying, frustrating and weird considering I bought a year of NCIS: Los Angeles when I was at Hotel Basztowy the other day.  Maybe I can figure out how to use the free introductory Amazon Prime that I have and use it when I run out of things to watch.  Tonight Michał made a fire under the gazebo.  He and his friend Tomek upgraded the fire pit from a hole in the ground to one surrounded by nicely laid bricks all around the circumference.  The fire took the edge off the cold air and cooked the kielbasa perfectly.  Nice end to a nice day.
Michał and his new fire pit

27 May, Sandomierz
It’s cold, gloomy, raining and by noon I’d already walked at least five kilometers.  I must be in Sandomierz.  

At 8, Hala dropped me at the swimming pool on her way to work, so of course it was closed until 10. Thus began my first schlepp between the pool and the Center.  But I was determined to exercise and returned at about 11 for half an hour of lap swimming and water exercises from my Y class.  Now, the combination of the pool and walking on hard cobblestone and concrete have made my back stiff.  Thankfully I have an IcyHot at the house.

Hala and I had a interesting discussion on Saturday about the kind of programs the Y offers for us “Silver Sneakers” as well as in general.  Silver Sneakers is the Y’s designation for those of us in the Medicare generation. Hala wanted to know how much my water exercise classes cost and who paid for them.  She was boggled when I said my insurance company paid all of my Y membership fee because I’m on Medicare (and for those under 65, most health insurers in Minnesota will pay some portion).  I also take part in a seated-chair Yoga class that’s one of many classes and activities specifically aimed Silver Sneakers.  The idea of helping older people stay physically active and mentally stimulated hasn’t taken root here, and Hala’s especially tuned in because she and Michał have had responsibility for caring for her aging parents for several years. Hala’s father, 93, has done virtually nothing for himself for several years. But until the last year, her mother, who had been a school teacher, kept pretty active, raising turkeys, chickens or geese and peeling potatoes for my dinners there. That last is an “in” joke -- when she learned that I like mashed Polish potatoes (they are fantastic!), Mrs. Kozłowska starting peeling and boiling kilos of them when I was here.  So I ate more than I would have normally.  Now 85, she has dementia and cannot go outside alone and doesn’t peel or cook. She seems content but it is sad to see what had been a feisty woman so docile.   

28 May
Hala’s daughter Marta arrived about 9:30 last night with Clara and Zara, as Hala expected, and Arya, very unexpected.  Clara and Zara are Marta’s cats; she’s had them for several years.  I met them as adorable kittens in Warsaw and have spent time with them as they’ve grown when I’m at Marta’s flat there.  This trip Marta met me at the airport on my arrival in Poland so that I could give her the Kindles and such that she’d ordered and I brought.  She told me then about Arya and showed me pictures of the adorable English sheep dog puppy that she and her beau Łukaś got. Łukaś has been wanting a dog, and Marta said, why not?  Arya reminds me of Buffy who lived down the street from us back in my married days.  Every so often she’d get loose and lumber playfully down to the cul-de-sac where our house was. 

Our protectors:
Bajgiel at the front door
Arya in the front hall





Clara on the bottom step

Zara on upstairs landing


















29 May, Warsaw, Poland
So, I decided to ‘make it easier’ and take the Warsaw bus that at 8:51 am stops in Dwikozy, which is less than 10 minutes from Hala’s farm rather than the one that only stops in Sandomierz, 20 or more minutes away depending on traffic and road repairs.  But the bus never arrived in Dwikozy ... apparently the schedule changed very recently.  We drove to Sandomierz and I caught the 9:35 and finally got to Warsaw at 2:10.

Once I dropped everything at Marta’s flat, I took off to shop.  Tomorrow is Corpus Christi Day, one of those national religious holidays when NOTHING will be open except churches.  It’ll be like Zamość during Easter when I was a Peace Corps volunteer.  My PC Bestest Susan, our PC colleague Len and two Dutch friends of Susan’s decided to spend the holiday in Zamość, a beautiful Italianate town that’s a couple of hours northeast of Sandomierz.  Anyway, none of us stopped to think about what we’d do for food on the holiday only to find virtually everything closed, including the hotel dining room after 3 pm.  We ended up eating hotdogs in a very small, underground-level jazz bar that we found by following the music.  Hence, my mad dash to find a store and food.

Just as I was finishing fixing some food, my friend Violane in Belgrade Skype’d.  We spent about 15 minutes catching up.  Depending on what happens here (and airfares!), I may go to Serbia for a few days.  I haven’t seen V in ages miss her, one of many colleagues and friends scattered around the world that I can only touch base with via Skype and email.  How did we ever maintain relationships across land and sea before those?

Well, now I’m listening to thunder and seeing the occasional lightning flash and wondering where the beautiful, warm sunny day went.  Well, at least I have a decent bottle of cheap chardonnay (is that an oxymoron?).

30 May
It’s cottonwood season in Warsaw, a time I remember well from the days when I lived here in this apartment.  Back then, the windows were the old style that opened like doors into the flat and I used a huge junk of recovered glass as a window stop.  During cottonwood season if I left the window open in the morning, as I often did, I’d come home to a fuzzy pile of cottonwood on the floor and puffs around the room.  It had flown in from trees in the preschool yard behind us.  Marta had new windows installed, so they can lean in from the bottom and only be open at the top, allowing fresh air in but generally keeping cottonwood and such out.  I would love to get these for my condo.  I had a sliding glass door in Kosovo that worked the same way too ... very slick.  Need to go on line and see what’s possible.

My newest great-nephew Alijah is home from the hospital with his big brother Jaden and mom and dad.  I’m anxious to see him and pleased that Craig sends photos and updates while he awaits my updated blog.

Have been online checking Belgrade airfares and also hearing from Warsaw friends, so I’m postponing Belgrade until the December board meeting.  On return from Scotland, I’m going to Kraków for the weekend to see Ula.  She said her mother ‘broke her spine.’  I don’t know details, but it doesn’t sound good.  I’m staying at Hotel Pod Wawelem, a newish hotel right around the corner from David and Inga’s flat.  I’ve walked by it many times and wanted to check it out. I booked after hotels.com offered a good rate and rating.  Besides, I know the location well and how to get everywhere from there, a big plus when you’re on foot or riding the tram or a taxi.  From Kraków, I’ll return to Warsaw for the weekdays, staying with Dorota, Jacek and their son Franio and the weekend in suburban Milanowek with Maryla, Staś and maybe their son Tomek who’s an adult now and lives in their city flat.  Maryla says they are beginning the interior renovations, a long time coming, and I don’t mind the dust for the chance to see them.  I also plan to get together with Małgoscia, Gina, Anna and Laura at some point that week.  While I see Małgoscia, Gina and Anna fairly regularly on these trips, I haven’t seen Laura since I came here from Uganda the year her daughter was born (2002?).  These are all old friends from my Peace Corps and Fiesta Consultants days.  (BTW, Fiesta didn’t plan parties.  We did HR consulting/training and media training.)  I should know before I leave for Scotland whether David and Inga are coming to Poland in mid June.  His follow-up visits with the surgeon and oncologist are this afternoon (DC time).  David’s oldest brother Jeff will go with them, and our friend Kim’s going to DC for the weekend, so they will have support.  When I Skype’d Inga yesterday, she promised to call me if they are done at a reasonable time.  I’ve been saying prayers, sending warm, positive thoughts, keeping my fingers cross and thumbs buried and trying not to worry since his last surgery.  I don’t always succeed.

Just had an email from my brother that our last remaining relative from our parents’ generation has died.  I’ve written about visiting Uncle Frank and Aunt Betty in Michigan over the years.  Dad’s youngest brother, Uncle Frank, died while I was in South Sudan last year.  Aunt Betty had been in hospice care for about three years. I have been thinking so much about her this last week as I had hoped to visit before I came here, then David had a second surgery. Having been there when she moved to the hospice facility last fall, I knew she was in good hands.  She would not have known if I were there or not, so I chose to help those with the greater need.  I think she’d have understood.  Aunt Betty was such a positive, warm, friendly woman.  She enjoyed telling the story of her first trip to our house in the ‘60s.  She had just had all of her teeth removed in advance of getting false teeth, but Uncle Frank insisted she accompany him on the trip to his hometown.  She was mortified, but my mother’s unconditional acceptance of her made her feel welcomed and at home.  I was a teenager and to be honest, I was more embarrassed than loving but could not have shown that for fear of the wrath of the General (our nickname for Mom), so I’m sure I was more aloof than engaged.  That changed in adulthood after I spent time with her and Uncle Frank post-Peace Corps. Their devotion to and love for each other and the real equality in their marriage was something rare, and it lasted until the end.  I miss them both.

31 May
What a month this has been.  I’m so grateful for some positive news -- the birth of Alijah and the good news this morning that David and Inga can come to Poland.  David remains in general good health and spirits and will start a new IV chemo that’s only administered every six weeks. On the down side, in addition to Aunt Betty’s passing, I learned that a cousin, Jimmy, also had died ... last November at age 85.  We last saw Jimmy at Aunt Betty’s 90th birthday in 2010.  Uncle Frank was especially happy to see him since my brother, sister and I were the only relatives he ever heard from.  Daddy’s family was never especially close.  Jimmy promised to keep in touch but never did.  Now I definitely need to pay attention to the time zones and check on Karen to see how she’s doing.  

Two very small solid black rectangles have shown up on my laptop’s desktop.  Two days ago the top margin was all black until I re-booted iTunes.  That isn’t working this time. The screen of my very first Mac laptop (one I bought second hand from friend Darren) needed replacing after a very large black rectangle showed up on every screen, not just the desktop.  Thus my feeling that this screen is going.  I only pray it holds on until I get home.

Guys, move to the next paragraph; you won’t be interested in this one.  Today’s New York Times had a piece about Jockey’s attempt at new bra sizing.  As a woman who (a) hates to shop for bras, (b) can never find one that’s comfortable and (c) usually ends up with beige, white or black, I read the article with interest.  I actually did a bra fitting once years ago and discovered that my bra was way under-size.  But I’m still not sure I want to make the investment in the sizing kit ($20) nor the bra ($60!) for white, beige and black.  But as we say in Poland, zobaczymy (we shall see).

I’m doing some laundry while I wait for a delivery for Marta.  She just called to say that it would not arrive as scheduled.  She also said the Łukaś was glad to hear that she’d talked to me about this.  At dinner last night I told him that I usually get up early, between 5 and 6 am.  This morning after awaking at 5:30, I decided to go back to sleep and actually slept until 8, something that doesn’t usually happen.  The apartment has no doors, so Łukaś could see that I was asleep when he got up around 6, and when he left, I was still in exactly the same position he’d seen me in earlier.  I forgot to mention that I don’t move when I sleep. He wasn’t sure if I was alive or not.  Marta and I had a good laugh.

Later ... The day turned out pretty well.  After a bit of rain in the morning, the sun came out and it was kinda hot by the time I walked home.  Walked for several hours, did some shopping, bought my Kraków train tickets, had lunch, didn’t eat ice cream.  Nice way to end the month.

As my friend Dan wrote in his Wandervogel blog today, “Life’s a crap shoot. Never lose heart.”  Amen.